About this Plan
Saracen. Free flight pusher sport model. All-sheet model for .5 - .8 cc engines.
Quote: "PJ Angus's 20-1/2 inch span all-sheet free flying Jet fighter, for .5 to .8 cc engines. Speedy to build. Tough. Easy to fly!
Easy to build and capable of withstanding a lot of knocking about, Saracen is a pusher with a difference. Who would not agree that this is also the right shape for a 'sport' model in 1962/3? Any resemblance to a very efficient Navy jet fighter is purely coincidental. The original models have flown well with a DC Dart .5 cc diesel and a Cox .049 glow ply Babe Bee. Vistors to the '62 rallies will have seen and been impressed by them in action.
If your engine is beam mounted, cheek the beam spacing and alter the drawing if necessary. Also, decide which way the side thrust should be. This depends upon whether you use a "pusher" prop as on the "Dart" (pointing to the left, viewed from above rear) or a tractor prop, running the engine in reverse, as for the "Cobra" or "Babe Bee", or Mills .75 (pointing to the right from above rear).
Be most careful to avoid making the model unneces-sarily heavy; the drawing indicates correct grade for each component.
Wood for tail surfaces and fuselage sides should be sanded smooth while still in the sheet stage, before trimming to shape.
When assembling each half-wing, trim the inboard ends to match. Double-cement halves together and add the ply understrap. Allow to dry thoroughly before shaping. Use very coarse sandpaper for initial bevels when sectioning.
Here's a tip. After cutting fuselage sides, stick them together with about eight dabs of cement around the periphery and trim edges with sandpaper so that the two sides are identical. Before separating, mark the former position on the outer edges. Fix all the formers to one side, then add the other side. Add internal items. Cut top and bottom sheets and attach. Don't forget the fin-slot and holes in top. Cut nose -12- in. sheet items slightly oversize and fix. Finish the nose shape, trim of excess sheeting, round-off corners and smooth all over. Now fit dowels, fin and finished dummy intakes. The following joints should be double-cemented: (1) All joints to engine bulkhead and engine bearers, (2) All end grains on nose block. Trial fit the engine, but avoid oil stains on the woodwork.
Finish: The appearance of this model depends greatly on the colour scheme. Decorated with RAF trainer colours as detailed on the plan it is a most attractive subject. If you want a different scheme, look for coloured pictures in the full-size aviation journals and you'll find plenty of ideas. Avoid 'model' type patterns of scallops, rays, zigzags and chequers.
Here's how to do the RAF trainer scheme. (i) Apply at least two coats of clear dope or sanding sealer, and rub down. (ii) Apply one coat of silver brushing cellulose dope, all over. (iii) Mask and paint colour patches (see plan) with one coat of glossy enamel. (iv) Apply transfers and address label. (v) Apply one coat of fuel proofer.
It isn't really as easy as that, so here are a few more tips, stage by stage. After stage (i) fix temporary handles to fuselage, wing and tail to aid decorating, and don't remove until all painting is complete. (ii) Start silver doping by painting all edges, crevices and awkward spots with an almost dry brush, then quickly finish off the easy areas with a well-loaded brush. Don't let 'runs' develop. Watch out for loose hairs on the brush; it's much easier to pick them off the brush than off the painted surface. (iii) 'Blaze' is the correct colour, but you'll probably have to settle for a bright orange, or red, which will still look good. Press the masking tape down well, and strip off as soon as possible after painting. If the enamel does run under the tape you can scrape off the unwanted spots with a sharp knife when its thoroughly dry.
To make narrow strips of masking tape, stick a wide piece of tape to a sheet of glass and cut off strips to the required width with a razor blade and a steel rule. Coloured gummed paper could be used as an alternative to enamel for these patches. (iv) After applying the transfers, rub a drop of gum (mucilage) around their edges with a finger-tip and wipe with a slightly damp cloth. If the transfer edges are not well fixed they will wrinkle when varnished. (v) It's very, very easy to miss a few patches when clear varnishing, so inspect very closely when you think you've finished. Unless you are quite sure of your materials, you should try out the paint scheme first on a piece of scrap sheet balsa. There are many paints on sale which "lift" if over-painted and if this happens to your model when it's nearly finished, you'll wish you had heeded this advice..."
Update 29/04/2013: Replaced this plan with a much clearer version, thanks to Derick Scott.
Quote: "Here is a much cleaner copy of the Saracen you have recently listed. I did the clean up on this one."
Update 29/06/2016: article pages, text & pics added, thanks to RFJ.
Supplementary file notes
Article pages, text & pics.
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by PJ Angus
IC F/F Pusher
all formers complete :)
got article :)
Found online 29/04/2013 at:
Format: • PDFbitmap
Credit*: hogal, Derick Scott
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User commentsSaracen plan - well done for adding it! Hi Steve, Thought you would like some 'period' photos of my Saracen... when we were very, very young and a lot slimmer !!! Best Regards
ChrisP - 29/04/2013
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