Baby Toots. Rubber sport model with Ritz wing construction.
Quote: "Many experts feel that a small rubber model is the ideal project for a beginner. We offer this design as a perfect type for the purpose - and fun for the more experienced builder as well. Baby Toots, by Karl Dieckman.
VERITABLY spin proof and capable of averaging over 1 min 20 secs without the aid of thermals, Baby Toots is the epitome of small Class A rubber-powered models.
Employing a highly efficient elliptical Ritz wing, a lifting stab, and a one-bladed folding prop, this small 29 sq in inexpensively-built model is ideal for flying in restricted areas. Simple construction keeps the weight down to 1 oz. while permitting the use of six strands of 1/8 flat T-56 Brown Contest rubber, which really gets the model up there, and allows it to make good use of its gliding ability.
For those who prefer CO2 to rubber power, it may be noted that a conversion using the Campus A-100 gives most satisfying results. The model was found to be extremely stable under all types of engine performance.
Whether you like a sky rocket climb (rubber) or a long steady one (CO2 power) and don't particularly mind attracting a large crowd of spectators, this is that quickly built and easily adjusted model which will give you the most for your time and money. Before actual construction is begun, place the full scale drawings on a flat smooth board and cover them with wax paper.
WING. The sparless Ritz wing makes for simple and quick building. Cut the outline from 1/16 x 3 inch sheet, sanding it down to an airfoil shape. Notch the inside of the leading and trailing edges, soak in warm water and pin them to the wing templates.
While this is drying, cut a rib template from a piece of hard 1/16 sheet, using this to cut out 20 ribs from a medium piece of 1/32 sheet. After the wing outline has been allowed to dry for at least two hours, remove it from the templates and insert the ribs. The dihedral is now added. Use cement liberally here, as the joint should be a strong one.
Allow the glue joints to dry thoroughly; sand down all ridges and cover with Jap tissue. Cover-ing is done with the grain of the tissue running spanwise. It is important to cover the bottom sections first, and be sure to dope the tissue to each of the ribs. After having covered the entire wing, spray the tissue with water and when dry apply two coats of thin dope.
If a warp has occurred unavoidably, it may be removed easily by holding the wing over the flame of a gas stove and twisting it as desired.
FUSELAGE-. Pin and glue the 1/16 sq hard balsa longerons and crossbraces exactly in place over the drawing. Be sure to place the pins on each side of the wood and not through the longerons, or they will be weakened. Build two sides directly upon one another to insure accuracy and when these have dried thoroughly, remove and separate them with a sharp razor blade. Join the sides together at the tail and nose; and when they are dry, add the remaining cross-pieces. The 1/16 sheeting may now be added. The fuselage must be sanded smooth before covering. Use either a double layer of Jap tissue with the grain of the two layers crossed, or rubber model silkspan. Water spray and apply three coats of thinned out dope.
PROP AND NOSE BLOCK. The prop and nose block are carved from hard balsa according to the drawings. The folding mechanism is added and the entire assembly covered with tissue. Five or six coats of dope with intermittent sanding are applied. Extreme care and accuracy should be exercised in the construction of the propeller as it is here that effort really pays off..."
Update 09/01/2019: Added article, thanks to RFJ.
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