Rearwin Speedster (oz4147)

 

Rearwin Speedster (oz4147) by John Berryman 1993 - plan thumbnail

About this Plan

Rearwin Speedster. Peanut scale model.

Here is John Berryman's Rearwin Speedster from MB issue 05-93. This peanut scale model was inspired by Earl Stahl's 1940 design.

Quote: "The Rearwin Speedster was a fast, sleek hot-rod in its day. On its 125 horsepower Menasco, the Speedster could achieve a top speed of 150 miles per hour, and could travel 550 miles at its cruising speed of 130 miles per hour. With its attractive lines and generous moments, the Rearwin simply cried out to be modeled. In I939 or so, a young man named Earl Stahl did just that, and eventually plans for his smooth flying 30-inch Rearwin Speedster (oz3845) appeared in the January 1940 issue of Model Airplane News.

All this is a matter of record, and was of purely academic interest to me until the summer of 1992. That's when a fellow named Jerry Murphy (who in most other respects is a perfectly nice fellow) used Earl's Rearwin to thoroughly clean my clock during the '91 Rocky Mountain Free Flight Champs. Suddenly, my interest was more than academic. Mr Stahl's Rearwin, it appeared, flew very well.

I'm pleased to say that my prototype Peanut Rearwin flew great; it is the second Peanut I've built that. when equipped with a loop of 3/32-inch rubber 10-1/2 inches long, really and truly did 'fly out of my hand.'

WING: If you've ever built one of Walt Mooney's Peanuts. the Rearwin's wing is going to look awfully familiar. I use 1/16 square for the leading edge and 1/16 x 1/8 for the trailing edge. My logic is that after they have been sanded to shape, they will weigh approximately the same as 1/20 stock. After pinning the LE and TE in place, add the bottom 1/20 square rib pieces. Then glue the 1/20 x 1/16 spar in place and add the curved upper portions of the ribs.

The tips are made from three laminations of 1/32 x 1/20 stock, soaked in water and glued around a waxed cardboard form. Note that the tips are glued tilted upwards slightly, to match the high-point of the adjacent rib. When the wing is dry, cut the spar, LE and TE outboard of the center section and add 7/16 of an inch dihedral to each panel. The plans don't show it, but I always gusset these joints. Peace of mind is a wonderful thing.

RUDDER AND STABILIZER: Nothing much new here either. The curved surfaces are laminated in the same way as the wingtips, and you will of course use your lightest 1/20 stock for the actual structure of both rudder and stab. Adding a bit of lightness now can help you avoid a large chunk of duration-eating ballast later.

FUSELAGE: The basic structure is made from 1/20 square. Because the fuselage experiences substantial loads, both from the rubber motor and occasional prangs, I chose to use heavier, springy stock for the longerons, and used lighter 1/20 square for the uprights and crosspieces. As usual, build one side over the plan, cover it with a second piece of waxed paper, and build the second side directly over the first to obtain identical sides.

Readers who have read my past construction articles know that I am a bit unorthodox in my method of fuselage assembly. After the fuselage sides have dried, I remove them from the plan and install absolutely square and very carefully measured 'temporary bulkheads'” with tiny drops of glue at the uprights that are directly under where the wing will be mounted. Then I glue the tailposts together.

Now I've got a square fuselage into which I can install the remaining crosspieces. Yes, I build 'in the air,' eyeballing as I go to make sure I'm not imparting any curves or wiggles into the assembly. Though I do virtually all of my building with Titebond, this is one place where CA glue is a real help. After all of the crosspieces are installed. I cut out the temporaiy bulkheads and install the crosspieces that replace them.

The cowl is made from the lightest 1/32 stock you've got, and if you're waiting for me to describe a better method of fitting the thing in place than 'cut and try,' you're going to be disappointed. Take your time, anti you should have little trouble.

PROP AND NOSEBLOCK: The noseblock is made from soft 1/2-inch stock, and the spinner is laminated from a bunch of 1/16 balsa disks, mounted on a dowel mandrel and spun to shape with a Dremel. An emery board is the ideal tool for this job.

The prop is made from 1/64 plywood blades mounted to a 1/8-inch birch dowel hub as shown on the plans. Epoxy or CA glue should be used for this job. If you've never built a homemade prop before, be advised that this is not an appropriate time for TLAR (That Looks About Right) engineering. Take the time to get your angles right, and do take the time to build the necessary jigs. If you're at a loss as to how to proceed with this, I recommend that you order a copy of Frank McCombs' fine book, Making Scale Model Airplanes Fly (Peck Polymers carries it). His comments on propellers alone justify the book's purchase price.

MISCELLANEOUS: The windshield and side windows are made from light butyrate, and the struts are made from light 1/20 x 1/8 stock. The landing gear on my Rearwin is some what unusual in that it is a complete fraud. It is carved, sanded and assembled from scrap; there are no wheels as such, and the whole affair is simply glued to small wire stubs mounted as shown on the plans. It is quite light, very simple, and on a polished gym floor, my little Rearwin lands so smoothly that you'd never guess it's really landing on a pair of glorified skids. ROGs, of course, are another story.

COVERING FINAL ASSEMBLY AND FLIGHT: Somewhere along the line, I became enamored with doping models - and I paid the inevitable penalty on the gram scale. Fighting off evil urges, my Rearwin was finished with one coat of nitrate dope, thinned 75 percent. The result was a 7 gram ship. I'm a pretty clunky builder, and for me, a Peanut that light is pretty good.

Final assembly is about as straightforward as it can get. My only comment is that time spent measuring carefully and aligning everything accurately is time well spent.

You'll notice that the Speedster has a rather high thrust line. Before flight, you'll need to relieve the forward bulkheads (leave perhaps 1/16 of an inch of the bulkheads in place) so that the rubber motor will have room to tum smoothly. A bit of sandpaper wrapped around a piece of tubing or 3/16 inch dowel is a fine tool for this lob.

With rubber in place, my Rearwin balanced on thespar. I put in 100 tums, launched it and it made a nice circle to the left. By the time I repeated that process 10 more times, I was up to 1100 turns, and the ship was ghosting around in the rafters for about 30 seconds. That was literally all there was to it.

I hope you have the same kind of luck with your Speedster!"

Direct submission to Outerzone.

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Rearwin Speedster (oz4147) by John Berryman 1993 - model pic

Datafile:
  • (oz4147)
    Rearwin Speedster
    by John Berryman
    from Model Builder
    May 1993 
    13in span
    Scale Rubber F/F Cabin
    clean :)
    all formers complete :)
    got article :)
  • Submitted: 21/03/2013
    Filesize: 448KB
    Format: • PDFbitmap
    Credit*: theshadow
    Downloads: 1197

ScaleType:
  • Rearwin_Speedster | help
    see Wikipedia | search Outerzone
    ------------
    Test link:
    search RCLibrary 3views (opens in new window)


    ScaleType: This (oz4147) is a scale plan. Where possible we link scale plans to Wikipedia, using a text string called ScaleType.

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User comments

Hi Mary and Steve, photos of my new model [main pic, 007-010]. Scale is 13 inch span.
Maciej - 19/05/2022
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