Curtiss XF13C-1 (oz3973)

About this Plan

Curtiss Experimental Fighter. Rubber scale model.

Quote: "Build This Model of the New Curtiss Fighter. Here You Have Complete Data Which Shows How to Build and Fly the Sensational New US Navy Fighter By WILLIAM WINTER and WALTER McBRIDE

THE new XF13C-1 Curtiss Experimental Fighter is the last word in pursuit ships. Contrary to the trend toward low-wing designs in late years, this ship is a high-wing cabin job with retractable landing; which when folded fits flush with the fuselage. Wing slots and flaps are incorporated in the design and insure a versatile performance. This latest demon of the air is capable of tremendous speed.

The proportions of the real plane make possible a graceful model of excellent flying characteristics, and you will be greatly pleased with the performance of this plane if you build it according to the following instructions.

Fuselage The bulkheads are cut to shape from 1/16 sheet as detailed on the plan. Cut the main notches designated, mark the locations of the auxiliary stringers and fasten the four main stringers of 1/16 sq in place on the widest bulkheads. Allow to dry and then locate the rear bulkhead. It may be necessary to press the stringers to obtain the correct curve at the rear and to eliminate strains that interfere with the alignment of the fuselage. After cement has set, glue the remaining bulkheads in place. Cut the remaining notches as required allowing for any irregularity in your work and cement the auxiliary stringers in place. Bend the rear hook to shape from .028 music wire and fasten to the rear bulkhead (cross grain).

The rear plug is shaped from a block 1-1/8 x 15/16 x 1-1/16 as shown on the top and side views and cemented to bulkhead #10.

Former B is cut to the proper shape from 1/16 sheet and cemented in position. Block D is a small piece of balsa 2-7/8 x 9/16 x 1/16 cut as shown on the fuselage plan and fitted against bulkhead #3 to form the peak of the windshield. The windshield structure is of 1/16 sq. Two pieces of 1/16 outside diameter aluminum are cut to the length given and passed through the fuselage at the position shown on the top and side views.

To cover, long strips of Jap tissue must be used to avoid wrinkles. Clear dope is used to apply the covering. All excess paper should be trimmed off and the frayed edges doped down. Finished covering may be lightly doped.

Tail wheel housing is formed from a block 7/8 x 5/8 x 2-1/8 as detailed and attached to the fuselage. The tail wheel is 1/8 thick and 3/8 in diameter and is held in position by small pieces of wire. The windows and windshield are of cellophane. The edges may be trimmed with black dope or lacquer. Being a Navy plane, the fuselage is silver. Getting away for a flight of 300 feet. Up to date, graceful and a fine flier It is very stable What could be more realistic?

Landing Gear: The oleo struts of 1/4 sq. are cut to their correct lengths and shape as detailed. Small pieces of bamboo are forced into either end as shown on the plan. The finished struts are attached to #2 bulkhead at the position designated. The axles of .034 wire serve as struts and should be fastened in place by thread as well as cement. The wheels are 1-1/2 in diameter and should be of a heavy type for correct balance.

Tail Assembly: The spars of 3/32 sq are pinned to the bench and all cross pieces with the exception of F are cemented in place. The edges of 1/16 sq bamboo are bent to shape by candle flame and glued in position. Cross piece F due to its shape is attached after unit has been removed from the form.

To cover, use separate pieces of[ tissue for each side of both stabilizer and rudder. Finished covering is lightly sprayed and doped. Navy stripes are painted on the rudder. The fin and stabilizer are silver. The completed units are attached to the fuselage at the designated positions. Brace both stabilizer and rudder with 1/32 sq bamboo.

Wings: The wings are built in two separate panels. Each panel is supported by a simple strut arrangement and is detachable. The pilot has an unobstructed vision through the glass cabin top. Pin the spars of 1/16 x 1/8 to the bench. Using the rib pattern given, cut all the ribs from a soft sheet of 1/16 balsa. Pin the ribs together, sand until matched and cut notches. Cement the ribs in their proper positions. The leading edge of 1/8 sq is sanded to shape and inserted in the notches at the front of the ribs..."

Supplementary file notes

Article, thanks to JeffMac.

Corrections?

Did we get something wrong with these details about this plan (especially the datafile)? That happens sometimes. You can help us fix it.
Add a correction