Comper Swift (oz3881)

About this Plan

Comper Swift. A 40 inch span FF scale model. Model Airplane News, January 1958.

Quote: "If a real plane ever existed that makes a more beautiful, better flying model than the Swift, we've yet to hear about it. For Half A engines. Comper Swift, by Hoh Fang-Chiun.

Free flight scale probably is the most 'touchy' branch of aeromodeling, for competition models of this type must be light in structure, yet having good aerodynamic character. Consequently, they usually are weaker than most other types of models and may be damaged if incautiously handled.

The Comper Swift was not designed to be a hot contest ship that will bring home many trophies but rather as a robust fly-for-fun sports model that will last for years of enjoyable weekend flying. In designing the model, therefore, attention has been concentrated on producing a durable and easy-to-transport plane.

To solve the transportation problem most parts of the model are made detachable and hooks, tubing, and rubber bands are used for this purpose in the design. It is possible to put the model into an ordinary handbag, as even the landing gear can be detached from the fuselage. The model is accurate except for tail areas, which are slightly enlarged, and the added dihedral, which is indicated by the wing struts. These departures from scale were found necessary in order to make the model fly well with the least sacrifice of scale appearance.

An interesting feature is the shock-absorbing landing-gear. As can be seen on the plan, it is of a simple yet effective construction. It worked very well on the original model. My model had a German Taifun Hobby .06 diesel and this engine provided more than enough power, but any other engine with a capacity of .049 - .075 cu in displacement will do the job.

Construction: First, cut all the balsa formers. Note that FD-FH are from 1/16 laminated sheet. This is due to the pressure on these formers when the fuselage sides, which are cut from 1/8 medium sheet, joint at FD. To save weight, lightening holes can be cut on them. Now cement FG and FH to fuselage sides. When dry, the remaining formers can be cemented in place.

Next, cut 1/4 x 3/8 x 4-1/4 inch engine bearers from hardwood and cement them to FD and FE with plenty of cement. Note the built-in right thrust. Before planking fuselage top with narrow strips, be sure that the 3/32 inside-diameter aluminum tubing for landing gear is securely fitted in place at FF and reinforced with plywood gussets, etc, as shown on the plan. Plank fuselage bottom with 1/8 sheet, grain crosswise, and cement a hollowed block at FD and FE. Saw firewall FC from 1/8 plywood and cement it to FD.

The fuselage can be roughly sanded at this stage before making the wing mount. The method of making the wing mount is clearly indicated on the. plan by step-by-step direction, so no further remarks are necessary.

The engine cowling is made of two soft blocks joined by 1/16 plywood former FB. After sanding it to follow the fuselage shape, it is suggested, in order to reduce weight, that the cowling be hollowed to the extent that the sides take about 1/4 inch in thickness. The cowling is detachable and is held in place by a pair of rubber bands inside the cowling and to prevent movement, two small hardwood pegs, cemented to the fuselage, are inserted into it. The fuel tank can be placed inside the cowling. The 1/8 sq and 1/8 x3/16 stringers can now be cemented on fuselage top between FI and FK. Add tailskid and cement a block on fuselage rear for stabilizer support. The fuselage is now ready for fine sanding before adding scale details.

The landing-gear is, as mentioned above, of the spring type and offers no difficulty in construction. However, to facilitate the finish of the fuselage, the landing-gear should be removed during the finishing process. The tail surfaces can be made next.

Start with the stabilizer. Pin down leading edge, bottom spar, tips and trailing edges directly on the plan. Add all ribs, which are cut from 1/16 sheet. Be sure that SA is cut 1/32 in undersize at each side. Next, add all gussets, top spar, leading edge sheeting and center top sheeting before removing from the building board. Complete center section by covering the bottom with 1/32 hard sheet. Two 3/8 long 1/16 id aluminum tubings are cemented and bound to underside of bottom spar between SB and SC as shown on the plan..."

Supplementary file notes

Planfile includes article.

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