Pogo (oz3508)
About this Plan
Pogo. Free flight contest power model.
Quote: You'll be in the trophy line if you build and fly this ship at contests...
It's clean and functional. The split rib construction helps to hold the weight down. Finished models usually wind up under weight and require ballast to bring them up to legal weight.
The author has been building and flying 'Pogos' for years. It is a hot contest design which racks time in fair weather or foul. We suggest beginners try some other ship for a first model. This one really cooks.
The first Pogo was built back in 1954 while we were stationed with the Army in New Mexico. After being released from the service and coming back East we refined the model by lightening the structure, lowering the pylon and changing angular differences. The result of these changes is a contest ship with a very fast climb and a perfect climb-glide transition. The glide is excellent due to the light weight (5oz on the nose) of the model.
FUSELAGE: Cut two fuselage sides from 1/16 sheet balsa and mark the former location on both of these sides. Cut out former 11 from 1/16 sheet balsa and cement this in place. At the same time join and cement the rear ends of the fuselage together. They can be held in place easily with a spring type clothespin. While this is drying cut the firewall from 1/16 plywood and former 1 from 1/4 in sheet balsa. Cement this piece directly to the firewall. Drill the wall for the engine you are going to use and cement a strip of tin, to which the nuts for the engine mounting bolts have been soldered, to the balsa side of the former.
Pin a straight piece of 1/4 x 1/2 in balsa to the outside of each fuselage side. These strips will hold the fuselage in alignment while inserting the formers. Cement the formers in place and cover the top and bottom of the fuselage with 1/32 sheet. Follow the grain directions shown on the plan. The pylon is made from hard 1/8 sheet balsa. Mount it by cutting a 1/8 slot in the top of the fuselage and cementing the pylon into the fuselage. Make sure of the alignment.
After the pylon is dry, lay a yardstick along one side of it. Measure the height of the pylon making sure that the front is 1/4 higher than the rear. Draw a line connecting front and rear of the pylon and cut away all excess wood. This last step insures proper wing incidence and should be under-taken with care. Finish the fuselage by adding..."
This plan was printed in Flying Models Decade of Designs (1), published 1960.
Direct submission to Outerzone.
Update 08/01/2018: added article, thanks to RFJ.
Supplementary file notes
Article.
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-
(oz3508)
Pogo
by Gerald Zeigenfuse
from Flying Models
September 1956
33in span
IC F/F Pylon
clean :)
all formers complete :)
got article :) -
Submitted: 10/10/2012
Filesize: 1038KB
Format: • PDFbitmap
Credit*: hogal
Downloads: 1599


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User comments
This is a great model by a great guy! It was my first really successful competition free flight in 1959 or so. Check National Free Flight Society website for more info freeflight.org/Dave - 11/08/2016
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- Pogo (oz3508)
- Plan File Filesize: 1038KB Filename: Pogo_oz3508.pdf
- Supplement Filesize: 1962KB Filename: Pogo_oz3508_article.pdf
- help with downloads
Notes
* Credit field
The Credit field in the Outerzone database is designed to recognise and credit the hard work done in scanning and digitally cleaning these vintage and old timer model aircraft plans to get them into a usable format. Currently, it is also used to credit people simply for uploading the plan to a forum on the internet. Which is not quite the same thing. This will change soon. Probably.
Scaling
This model plan (like all plans on Outerzone) is supposedly scaled correctly and supposedly will print out nicely at the right size. But that doesn't always happen. If you are about to start building a model plane using this free plan, you are strongly advised to check the scaling very, very carefully before cutting any balsa wood.
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