About this Plan
Pogo. Free flight contest power model.
Quote: You'll be in the trophy line if you build and fly this ship at contests...
It's clean and functional. The split rib construction helps to hold the weight down. Finished models usually wind up under weight and require ballast to bring them up to legal weight.
The author has been building and flying 'Pogos' for years. It is a hot contest design which racks time in fair weather or foul. We suggest beginners try some other ship for a first model. This one really cooks.
The first Pogo was built back in 1954 while we were stationed with the Army in New Mexico. After being released from the service and coming back East we refined the model by lightening the structure, lowering the pylon and changing angular differences. The result of these changes is a contest ship with a very fast climb and a perfect climb-glide transition. The glide is excellent due to the light weight (5oz on the nose) of the model.
FUSELAGE: Cut two fuselage sides from 1/16 sheet balsa and mark the former location on both of these sides. Cut out former 11 from 1/16 sheet balsa and cement this in place. At the same time join and cement the rear ends of the fuselage together. They can be held in place easily with a spring type clothespin. While this is drying cut the firewall from 1/16 plywood and former 1 from 1/4 in sheet balsa. Cement this piece directly to the firewall. Drill the wall for the engine you are going to use and cement a strip of tin, to which the nuts for the engine mounting bolts have been soldered, to the balsa side of the former.
Pin a straight piece of 1/4 x 1/2 in balsa to the outside of each fuselage side. These strips will hold the fuselage in alignment while inserting the formers. Cement the formers in place and cover the top and bottom of the fuselage with 1/32 sheet. Follow the grain directions shown on the plan. The pylon is made from hard 1/8 sheet balsa. Mount it by cutting a 1/8 slot in the top of the fuselage and cementing the pylon into the fuselage. Make sure of the alignment.
After the pylon is dry, lay a yardstick along one side of it. Measure the height of the pylon making sure that the front is 1/4 higher than the rear. Draw a line connecting front and rear of the pylon and cut away all excess wood. This last step insures proper wing incidence and should be under-taken with care. Finish the fuselage by adding..."
This plan was printed in Flying Models Decade of Designs (1), published 1960.
Direct submission to Outerzone.
Update 08/01/2018: added article, thanks to RFJ.
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User commentsThis is a great model by a great guy! It was my first really successful competition free flight in 1959 or so. Check National Free Flight Society website for more info freeflight.org/
Dave - 11/08/2016
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