Hawker Hurricane (oz3323)

About this Plan

Hawker Hurricane. Free flight rubber scale model fighter.

Quote: "How You Can Build a Fine Flying Replica of Britain's Famous Fighter. Hawker Hurricane, by Earl Stahl.

THE Hawker Hurricane, famed British fighter, won the Battle of Britain hands down and thus, it is believed, saved the world from the dictators. In Africa, Hurricane 'can-openers' armed with 40mm cannon received Gen Montgomery's thanks for making his historic victory possible.

Now overshadowed by its young nephew, the Typhoon, the Hurricane is still blasting the enemy around the four corners of the globe. Latest versions are capable of nearly 400 miles per hour and carry two heavy bombs in the Hurri-bomber version. Types fitted with deck arrestor gear are known as Sea Hurricanes and many are operating from escort carriers along the Allied supply routes to England.

Various combinations of armament, eight machineguns of .303 caliber, four cannon of 20mm bore or two cannon of 40mm bore are used, each designed for a specific job.

The model described here is a speedy flying reproduction of its capable prototype. Because of sleek lines and interesting construction, it will provide many hours of enjoyment both in building and flying.

Construction is not difficult; study the plan thoroughly and read the instructions before beginning actual work. Build directly over tracings of the plans and be sure to cement all joints firmly.

Fuselage: To simplify construction and alignment, the keel and former method is used. Obtain the keel pieces' proper shape by tracing the side view top and bottom outlines on a sheet of paper - depth of each keel piece is about 5/32 in. Cut out the paper patterns and then lightly cement them to 1/16 sheet balsa so they can be cut out. The side keel shape is indicated on the top view; two are required; they also are cut from 1/16 sheet.

The various fuselage formers are shown on the plan; two of each type will be needed. Medium grade 1/16 sheet is used for them. Cut only the notches indicated; other notches should be marked and then cut later as required.

Pin the top and bottom keels to place over the side plan and then cement half the formers to their respective positions. Attach the side keel after checking each former for correct alignment. When dry, remove this simple frame from the plan and attach remaining formers and side keel. Stringers are medium grade 1/16 sq strips. As work progresses it will be necessary to cut many notches for the stringers; use a razor blade that has been broken to a sharp point for this operation.

Once a stringer has been attached to one side always attach one to the other side's corresponding position to avoid pulling the structure out of line. Small pieces of hard 1/16 sheet cemented between stringers in the rear serve as the anchor for the rubber motor.

Filling-in the nose with balsa, as shown, effectively represents the metal cowl of the real ship. Use soft 1/16 and 3/32 stock, as required, and cut the individual pieces to fit snugly within the spaces between stringers and formers. When dry, cut and sand the entire nose to a smooth, accurate shape.

The extreme front part of the nose is cut front 1/4 in sheet that has been laminated together. Notice the nose block center is cut out to receive the removable nose plug. Cement the block to former 1 and then shape it to blend with the nose.

Wing: The wing is constructed in three parts; plans for the right wing and half the center section being given. Prepare complete plans for the center section and left wing so parts can be assembled over them. Two of each type ribs, with the exception of 1 and 1 - B, are required; ribs are cut from 1/32 or 1/20 sheet. Notches for the various spars must be cut with accuracy to insure a neat job. Leading edges of the outer sections taper from 1/8 by 1/4 to 1/8 sq; taper the trailing edges to correct crosssection before pinning them to place over the plans.

Assemble the various parts directly on the plan, using pins to hold them in place until cement has hardened. The end ribs of each section should be slanted a small amount so the dihedral angle will be correct when they are joined. Tips are cut from 1/8 sheet and cemented to place. Trim the edges and tips to shape and then cement the three units solidly together with 1-7/8 in dihedral at each tip..."

Supplementary file notes

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