Green Hornet (oz3288)

About this Plan

Green Hornet. Radio control sport biplane model.

Quote: "If you are considering building the Green Hornet, you have probably built a number of kits or maybe scratch-built from some of the many fine prints offered by RCM. Either way, look the plan over very carefully and you will find it's merely a box with a few round formers added, the wings and tail are quite conventional. There is an extra wing to build, but there is no thrill like a biplane floating in for a landing. Cut out the various parts very carefully, assemble with some thought and I know you will be successful.

Most scratch-builders are designers at heart, so feel free to change things to suit yourself; but maintain the basic parameters as they are critical to successful flight. Bear in mind that biplanes are notoriously tail heavy, so don't hesitate to add lumber to the front end. Much better to add weight in construction to add strength, than in a dead lead weight.

Fuselage: Start by making the sides of the box. Each side is made from a sheet of 3/32 balsa with a sheet of 1/64 ply contact cemented to both sides. I like to rubber cement the plans to the sheet of wood. (By the way, plans are not all that expensive, when scratch-building I usually send for two, one to cut up and one to build by.) Anyway, glue the two sides together in spots that will fall out when you cut out the lightening holes. Now cut the two sides together, add the 1/16 ply doublers to the inside front end of each side, and drill the 1/16 diameter holes in front of all bulkheads as indicated. When the two sides are cut out as one, they will separate when you remove the lightening hole areas.

I like to use the RCM Fuselage Jig (oz11465), but whatever method you use, place the sides over the top view. Make certain the two sides are parallel and at right angles to the building surface. Thread short lengths of 1/16 diameter music wire through mating holes from one side to the other; this will help line up the two sides. Glue 1/4 sq balsa separators in place along with the 1/4 ply firewall and the triangular braces, right behind the firewall. Before you put in the firwall make sure you have the holes drilled and T-nuts in place..."

Note this is a low resolution plan, at 120 dpi.

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Supplementary file notes

Article, thanks to DavidTerrell.

Corrections?

Did we get something wrong with these details about this plan (especially the datafile)? That happens sometimes. You can help us fix it.
Add a correction