Electric Cardinal (oz3203)

 

Electric Cardinal - plan thumbnail image

About this Plan

Electric Cardinal. Free flight plans by Colin Smith, son of the original Veron Cardinal designer Phil Smith. For KP1 electric motor, or CO2 power.

Quote: "Colin Smith has converted this well-loved design by his father to provide some relaxed and quiet flying on KP01 power.

I have successfully flown the original Veron Cardinal (oz4418) with assorted engines over a great number of years. Incidentally, the model was designed by my father Phil Smith when at Veron some 44 years ago. So it seemed a logical candidate for reduction in size from 35 to 25 inches, for CO2 motors.

At the time of his retirement in 1982, well over 100,000 kits had been sold proving its world-wide popularity, and it is still available today. Thus the pedigree of dad's design is irrefutable. In its reduced size at 25 in span, the model was highly successful with a Telco Turbotank, but the advent of the intriguing KP01 Electric motor with its three diminutive in-built cells and field charging pack, proved irresistible for quiet flying.

Flown at Middle Wallop on numerous occasions, its presence always created a unique interest and proved itself quite capable of full-length aerodrome excursions. Scaled down almost exactly, the only two small concessions are the slightly deeper nose to accommodate the three point anchorage of the KPO1 motor, and a slightly enlarged fin. The latter being found necessary due to the scaled-down effectiveness aerodynamically of the vertical area.

Careful balsa selection is imperative for successful weight control and structural strength. Where possible search out medium grade sheeting for wing ribs, fuselage formers and sides. Preferably
quarter-grain, distinguished by its flower-grained appearance and commonly known as rib-stock. Very light and stiff.

My own basic perquisites for building are bead-headed modelling pins and a 12 inch steel rule - invaluable for cutting straight edges. My building board is covered with glued-on 1/4 in industrial plain grey Lino which makes sticking pins in a doddle. The best adhesive is aliphatic PVA, and if you can spare the cash for even faster building, cyano low-viscosity glues. Always have a good look at the plan so that the assembly sequence is fully appreciated.

Wings: I pin pricked out the rib template from 1/16 ply for the 14 ribs from 1/16 sheet. The section is somewhat full in depth making for high-lift, slow speed and good lateral stability. Note that the main spar is on the upper surface making for a triangular structure between leading and trailing edges giving rigidity and a wing which will not curl up. When covered and doped, it remains flat and warp-proof throughout its life.

Build up the wing above the plan over cling film (I always use the backing from Solartex). Create the 1/16 in deep slots in the trailing edges by filing with a 1/16 x 3/8 flat file on its edge. Better than trying to cut out with a knife. A small template is given on the plan for angling the base ribs for dihedral. Don't forget the base-rib gussets and sheet tips. Do not use too heavy a balsa for the 3/16 square leading edges. The tips are angled sheet, full size on the plan and gusseted to the angled spars.

Pin-prick out, mark and cut out the 1/16 plywood dihedral gusset, widening the slot in the base rib with the 1/16 file. Glue up the base ribs generously, butted, before joining the two wing halves, one panel flat to the building board and the other supported on a block 3-1/2 in giving 1-3/4 dihedral each side. Clamp the ply gusset whilst drying with clothes pegs. When completely dry and set, sand the whole structure smooth with a sanding block, rounding the leading edge to section shown. DO NOT leave the leading edge with a sharp edge or stability and glide will suffer. Important even on a model this small.

Fuselage: Pinpricks every 1/4 in or less makes cutting out the fuselage sides much easier. Use a French curve, if possible, as a template to cut the curves around the cabin and nose areas. Likewise, pin-prick and cut out using the steel rule for straight parts. Note the thickness and grain direction of all formers. Similarly, mark and cut out all the slots in the fuselage sides for locating the formers in key slots, both 3/32 and 1/16.

Glue up the three main formers, F3, F4 and F5, checking for squareness and alignment over the plan. Inset the remaining rear formers, F6, F7 and F8, pulling the sides together at the stern bay with clothes pegs. The engine mounting formers, F1 of 1/16 ply and the F2 of 1/32 ply have packing pieces between them tapered as seen in side view to create a balsa-ply sandwich to create down-thrust. Cut the balsa tapered blocks very accurately. When gluing the whole laminate in place, ensure F2 is parallel to F3. Coating the ply and balsa with thin cyano will harden the nose for engine mounting screws.

Bend the 16 swg wire for the undercarriage to shape then bind to the ply with 1/16" holes in the square ply former. Use button thread with a needle for this. Coat the thread with glue and also glue firmly to the lower edge of former F4. Secure the wheels with soldered rings of copper or soft iron wire..."

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Scaling

This model plan (like all plans on Outerzone) is supposedly scaled correctly and supposedly will print out nicely at the right size. But that doesn't always happen. If you are about to start building a model plane using this free plan, you are strongly advised to check the scaling very, very carefully before cutting any balsa wood.

 

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