Dinky Dizzy (oz2930)
About this Plan
Dinky Dizzy. Half size version of the original 1947 Dizzy Diesel competition free flight power design. For KP electric power.
Quote: "Build Geoff Dunmore's diminutive version of his Vintage Classic...
I had one of the first 1.3 cc Mills diesel engines from Eddie Keil, and around this time I had seen a model of Leon Schulman's Banshee fly, with it's near vertical climb - and it was this that influenced the design of the Dizzy Diesel for the 1.3 Mills diesel. The Dizzy Diesel proved a success in the power duration competitions at that time, and finally won the National competi-tion for the Halifax Rose Bowl in 1949. - all flights being ROG.
Last year, Tony Farthing, writing in his column in the SAM 1066 Clarion Magazine, referred to the Dizzy Diesel and said it would be nice to see a half size version - and kindly sent me a half size print of my original drawing. I was hooked, and built one fitted with a KP01 electric motor unit. Since then, it has flown with great success at club meetings, Middle Wallop and Old Warden.
Construction: I think that the drawing gives all the main details needed - therefore I will only cover a few points that I feel may be necessary.
Medium to soft balsa is used for the construction of the model, as it is very important to keep the weight down to a minimum. The all up weight, including the motor unit, should not be more than 2 oz.
The wing mainspar is constructed from 6 pieces of 1/16 strip, with large overlaps for strength. The curved outer wing panels, entire tail out-line and part of the fin are made from 1/8 and 1/32 strips, laminated to give a light and strong construction.
The central profile of the fuselage is con-structed on a flat board and when complete, the formers 2 to 9 are added.The 1/16 square outer longeron is fitted, and the lower half of the undercarriage support. The tapered 1/16 bottom strip No.11, is also fitted. When dry remove from the board and complete the other side in a similar manner.
The undercarriage is bent to shape and then threaded through the fuselage. The two pieces of balsa (pt.13) are then glued in place to lock the undercarriage in position, before binding the joints with fuse wire and soldering.
The motor mounting plate (pt.1) is next to be glued in place. Check the fit of the KPO1 power unit.The charging plug socket is pulled towards the front of the unit and the wires to the motor go through the bottom groove of the front plate. Care must be taken here, as there is very little space for the power unit, and it may well need a little prising of the balsa for the final fit.
The cowling is made from thin card, glued to the front former. The dummy 1.3 Mills diesel engine was made using balsa for the body. The cylinder head is two sizes of discs cut from plastic sheet and assembled alternately, the carb is 1/16 dowel and wire.
Before covering, give the framework that the tissue will be stuck to, a very thin coat of clear thinned down dope, about 25% dope to 75%
thinners.When this is dry, give the whole structure a light sanding with very fine sandpaper.
Covering and Finishing: The whole model is covered in light weight tissue, using a very watered down PVA glue. Cover the underside of the wing first, making sure the tissue sticks to all the ribs, to give the required undercamber. The compound curve of the pylon on the fuselage is a little more diffi-cult, and this I covered in vertical strips between each former. When all the covering is complete and the glue is dry, I used a very fine paint brush and ran the thinned dope over the joints in the tissue and on the undercambered ribs.This stops the covering moving when it is finally sprayed with water to shrink it. When the covering is dry and tight, give two light coats of thinned Banana Oil.The fin is then glued to the tailplane, scraping away the covering to give a wood to wood joint. For the final trimming and lettering I used white ink, which showed up nicely on the red covering.
Flying: Check the centre of gravity and adjust with Blue Tack if necessary. Hand glide over long grass and trim to obtain a flat straight glide. For the first power flight, only charge the motor for 7 or 8 , seconds and make any further adjustments necessary. Increase the charge time for subsequent flights, as desired. The Dizzy should have a fast climb, and I nor-mally never charge for over 30 seconds - as it can go quite a long way. 50 years ago I ran after my original Dizzy Diesel - now I only stroll after my Dinky Dizzy! Good Flying!"
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