About this Plan
Santanita. Nordic A1 class towline glider.
Quote: "Now part of American rules, the Nordic A1 joins the big A2's. Smaller size makes a craft useful for beginners and experts. This ship is OK! Santanita by Stan Hill.
The A.1 specification towliner, popular in Europe for some time, has been made a part of US modeling. The principle reason for its adoption is its excellence as a beginner's model. The A.1 is quick and easy to build, can be flown in the restricted space of the nearest school yard and, happily, it can be completed for less than a dollar. It is roughly the size of a Half A gas job and fits into the modeling picture in much the same way. The Santanita is a high-performance glider, having most of the features of a contest Nordic while retaining the simplest possible rigid structure.
The fuselage is begun by cementing the wing mount and the hardwood keel to a piece of hard 3/8 x 3/4 balsa. When this is dry, taper and carve to the cross sections indicated on the plan. Next, saw a 1/16 slot in the rear and insert the rudder. Add the 1/16 ply wing and stabilizer platforms, the aluminum fuse tube and stabilizer retaining wire (bent from paper clip). Sand smooth and attach the auto rudder with cloth hinges 'ukie' style. Finish with three coats of sanding sealer, sanding lightly between coats with 8/0 paper. Bend loops into the ends of three pins and solder them to thin brass washers as indicated. Apply cement to these pins and insert into the fuselage as auto rudder thread guides.
The thread linking the auto-rudder ring to the 1/16 dowel (round tooth-pick is OK) rudder horn is attached now. With the ring fully forward on the towhook it should hold the auto-rudder in a neutral position. The .010 in diam wire spring is inserted under the cloth hinges on the side opposite the horn.
The wing is started by cutting accurately one copy of each different rib. Use these as templates around which the razor is guided in cutting the ribs to be used in construction. Pin the ribs in a stack, sand (with a block!) to identical outline and notch for the spars with a small saw. Pin leading edge, trailing edge and the bottom spar to the plan and cement in the ribs, The end ribs which join the center and tip panels are angled with the dihedral-angling jig shown on the plan.
You will note that an alternate, undercambered airfoil is indicated for use by experienced builders wanting peak performance..."
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Update 22/03/2017: added article, thanks to PeterBecker.
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User commentsI built this plane in 1957 for my first National Competition (Yankee Championships, North Weymouth Naval Air Station MA). Lost it on the first timed flight in a strong thermal despite the DT working. Got a call 2 months later from someone who had found it (minus stab), wanted $20 for it. Told him it cost $3 to build,keep it! and hung up. Now I will build another one. Still trying to figure out what the airfoil is. No known section looks like it! Stan uses a similar section in the international winning PAA Plane he built with (and specified) the same sharp edged airfoil for! I placed 2nd in 1/2A FF with the RAMROD 250 I built at the same time. Moved out of the Massachusetts area to New York and did not fly again till Grad school at age 47! I still had (and still have) the 1957 built Ram Rod 250 and fly it occasionally... soooo, Thank you... Is the rest of the MAN article on the SANTANITA still available? I still have the Model Airplane News issue with the Ram Rod 250 Plan in it!
PeterBecker - 10/03/2017
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