Honza 2 (oz2812)

About this Plan

Honza 2. Control line sport trainer model. Wingspan 1006 mm.

Update 9/3/2025: Replaced this plan with a clearer copy, scanned from fullsize at 400 dpi, also added full build instructions, thanks to dfritzke.

Quote (google translated): "BUILDING INSTRUCTIONS. Almost exactly twenty-five years ago (in the 5/1959 Modelar), the blueprints for the Honza model were published, which literally taught at least one generation of modellers. It is only logical that we are now returning to Honza: good school models never get old, and in addition, you do not need a large amount of scarce balsa for construction. Honza 2 is a suitable model for training to fly with SUM category models, and you can also compete with it in the new UŠ-Start category. It can fly safely above the 45° level, can turn around and do a series of loops in a row. It only takes a few meters to take off, but you can enjoy the entire circuit when landing.

The original Honza was powered by a not very powerful Start engine with a displacement of 2 cm3. It was enough for about two loops in a row, then you had to pick up speed. But this engine also had its advantages: the exhaust was directed to the side and the diffuser was from below, which made it easier to assemble into the model. Honza 2 is powered by an MVVS 2.5 DF engine, which is more powerful, but I had to modify the front part of the fuselage. Compared to its predecessor, the modernized Honza also has modified wing mounting (now with four M3 screws, because rubber easily tears after etching with fuel) and landing gear. The latter is divided and removable, so the model fits more easily into the trunk of a car.

Fuselage: The basis is two lattice side panels, glued directly on the drawing, covered with plastic foil. The right and left side panels differ only in the way the T1 longitudinal strip is glued once to the side panel from above, creating the right side panel, and glued to the left side panel from below after removing the side panel from the pin template. Cut out the T2, T3, T4, T5 partitions from plywood. Start assembling the fuselage by gluing the T4 partition first, then T3 and T2. Work the T7 beech prisms and carefully glue them into the holes in the partitions. After the front part of the fuselage has dried, glue the upper and lower transverse spacers gradually from the T4 partition to the back; while tightening the fuselage with several loops of rubber bands. While drying, check the symmetry of the fuselage. From the T2 partition to the T4 partition, double the T1 strip in the fuselage outline. Do the same under the stabilizer, where we glue the T9 strip.

Prepare the T6 beech prisms for attaching the landing gear, drill them vertically in a vice; it is advisable to pre-drill the holes on both sides with a 2 mm diameter drill. For the main chassis leg T18, we then drill a hole with a diameter of 3 mm. If we do not have steel wire with a diameter of 2.5 mm, we will also use a wire with a diameter of 3 mm for the struts T19, to which we will adapt the hole in the prism. We will file the recesses into the prisms for the 3 x 3 mm side rails. We will glue the prisms T6 to the partitions T3 and T4 according to the drawing..."

Supplementary file notes

Instructions.
Previous scan version.

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