Kiltie Gull Biplane (oz2763)

About this Plan

Kiltie Gull Biplane. Free flight rubber model from Flying Aces February 1939 by Henry Scotty Mayors.

Quote: "The last page of this one is a little messed up as the magazine is in pretty poor condition. It is readable however several words are missing."

Quote: "Build Our Kiltie Gull Biplane. Here's a nifty, ace-high sky-scooter that's even better than the swell jobs good old 'Scotty' Mayors has given us in the past. And best of all, it's so designed that all you newly-fledged 'balsa brothers' can turn it out in full stride with our old time modelers. So clear off your workbenches, fellows—and go to it!

CLIMBING steeply after a smooth run, the Rale biplane soars skyward. Experimenting in high-lift wings, light construction, and glider-like design, the model offers fine characteristics insuring good flight performance.

Gull wings, single strut landing gear, 'I' type wing struts, wheel pants, no external bracing, and a light wing loading, combine to make the Kiltie Gull a finely streamlined, modern plane.

The model is simply constructed, has a certain amount of flexibility, and can be finished in a wide assortment of colors and designs. You can make your Kiltie Gull job with appropriate colors, insignia, and markings, or a sport model using bright scalloping effects, body striping, and numerals.

The propeller run (machine wound) is approximately 40 seconds, so you are assured of nice flights of about one minute in duration. The model climbs steeply, flies slowly, and has a long glide.

With the type of finish you choose in mind, let's proceed to our building, Having used standard stock wood sizes, it will be quite easy to follow directions without having to fit odd sizes.

FUSELAGE CONSTRUCTION: The fuselage is constructed of 3/32 square hard balsa. Two sides are built to the shape of the heavy outline. The longerons are cut to size, and the uprights are glued to them.

Now to join both sides we must install the cross-pieces, which are shown in the top view. This gives the fuselage width. Cut each cross-piece carefully and glue it between the sides, making sure your fuselage is lined up symmetrically.

The noseblock, cut and sanded to shape from 1/4 in flat balsa and hollowed out to allow for the nose plug, is now glued to the front end of the fuselage. The formers, numbered from 1 to 9, are cut to shape from 1/16 flat balsa and each is glued in its respective position. The flat pieces of 1/16 balsa are glued above and behind the landing gear leg as shown.

Stringers of 3/32 square hard balsa are glued from the noseblock to the cabin, and on the bottom aft to the projecting lower wing-mount on the box-like structure..."

Supplementary file notes

Planfile includes article.

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