Duck Gas Buggy (oz2728)

About this Plan

Duck Gas Buggy. Amphibian free flight power model. August 1939 by Pete Bowers.

Note colour photo of completed Duck model by Arthur Fox [pics 003] is from RCM&E, January 1993.

Quote: "Try this unique 'Duck' Gas Buggy. By Pete Bowers.

WHO SAYS that gas models are all alike? Well, here's one that's pleasantly different. In fact, that's why I designed her - I was fed up with the more conventional ships and wanted to build something that wouldn't look like the usual run but still would have their flying ability. That, boys, is the story of the Duck. And I hope you get as big a kick out of building her as I did.

The Duck not only has the lines of a real ship but she turns in swell flights, too. Watching her plane across the water for take-offs is a real thrill—one that you'll not get with the ordinary landplane. And seeing her come in for water landings really makes a modeler's heart jump with joy at her beauty.

What, you don't believe me? Okay, then build her yourself if you've gotta be convinced. In fact, build her anyway even if you do believe me (and I promise I'm telling the truth).

MAKING THE HULL: Draw a full size side view of the body, scaling the dimensions from the plan. Now, cut the formers and bulkheads from 1/8 sheet, mark their proper places on the sides of the 1/16 sheet hull, and assemble. A strip of balsa, 34 in wide, is used for the rear former.

The step vents are made by capping the space between the step bulkheads and cutting holes in the upper part (on the sides) of the box that is formed, as well as in the bottom of the hull. These vents enable the ship to get off the water more easily by breaking the suction of the water behind the steps.

LANDING GEAR: This unit is made from 3/32 dia steel wire, which passes through 1/8 inside dia aluminum tubing in the hull. A plate of 1/16 brass, drilled as shown in the plans, is soldered to the front landing strut - the rear one being bent in such a way as to hook into the lower hole. The struts are hooked in 'Down' position for land flying and are merely unhooked and rotated through 180 degrees into the 'Up' position, where they are hooked out of the way for water flying. The landing struts have to be bent to shape after they have been put in the tubes. A good pair of needle-nose pliers will be needed for this. Any make of wheel can be used. But be sure that they're 2-5/8 in dia.

WING AND TAIL SURFACES: Cut the ribs from 1/32 sheet and the spars from 1/16 sheet. Notice that the spars are full depth, the ribs are notched to half their depth, and the spars notched to half their depth to receive the ribs.

The tail surfaces are built right on the ship, no layout is needed. Cement the rudder spar in place and then fit the ribs in their proper positions. Line them up properly, and glue the 1/32 leading and trailing edge strips in place. When these are thoroughly dry, add the tips and trim to shape with a pair of scissors or with a sharp knife. Cement the stabilizer spar to the rudder spar, and proceed exactly as in building the rudder.

The wings are of the same construction as the tail but are built over a full size layout. In this case, the lower leading and trailing edges are laid down first and the spars are laid on top of them. The ribs should fit into their places easily. Join the two halves by splicing the spars and cementing auxiliary strips of 1/16 sheet alongside the splices. Build in four inches of dihedral on each side.

ENGINE NACELLE AND MOTOR MOUNT: My model is powered with a Brat motor and the mount is just a regular Brat mount, planed to half-thickness. Different motors of the same horse power may be used, however they will require different mounts from the one shown. But it'll be an easy job to work them out yourself.

The mount is held in place by pine struts - the main ones sanded to an airfoil shape from 1/8 x 1/4 pine, and the inner ones are 1/8 square pine, sanded round. Make the two outer 'N' struts from the full size layout, cementing them to the ends of the motor mount and to the center wing ribs where they join the spars.

Cut the formers for the nacelle from 1/16 sheet balsa, glue them to the motor mount, and cover with 1/32 sheet. Notice that the upper front section from N-3 forward is removable for access to the condenser and gas tank..."

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