Pegleg Ike (oz2693)

About this Plan

Pegleg Ike. Free flight rubber model from June 1938 by Louis Garami.

Quote: "Another Garami Stick Model. Here's a swell job, fans, for the beginner who's ready to try something a little more difficult than just a 'plain stick.' For, while 'Pegleg Ike' is still a simply-built stick model, he has a built-up wing, a fancy single-strut landing gear, and a twin-ruddered tail. He's a swell flyer and a fast climber, too ! So our advice to you is: Try our Pegleg Ike.

Do you know where all good little model airplanes go when they crack up? Well - usually to the scrap heap! But their spirits go climbing on toward the model air-plane heaven where they learn to play harps strung with 1/8flat brown Para rubber. Believe it or not!

Anyway, Pegleg Ike will make you think he's heading right straight for the Valhalla of the Valiant the first time you turn him loose - if you've made a good job of putting him together in your hurry to try him out. For he's a swell flyer if ever there was one. And you can take the writer's word for that!

In spite of his single strut landing gear, Pegleg Ike is quite capable of making a swell three-pointer because of the additional support lent by the twin rudders. And experiments have shown us that this extra tail-appendage lends for greater stability in the air as well as on the ground. But enough of talk - you fellows are wanting to get to work so you can see what Ike can do.

STICK AND LANDING GEAR: SELECT a piece of soft balsa measuring 12-1/2 by 3/4 by 3/16 inches for the stick. Shape it according to the outline given on the plans, and taper it toward the rear. Sandpaper the edges lightly.

Next prepare the balsa block which is to hold the prop bearing, and glue it securely in place. The block measures 1/4 by 3/16 by 5/8 in size. The bearing is made of 1/32 sheet aluminum as wide as the balsa block and 1 inch in length. Ordinary scissors can be used to cut it. Now place the piece on top of the block so that 3/16 sticks out both in front and rear, and bend these over-laps down over the blocks at right angles. Before cementing the metal in place, punch a hole at both front and rear.

The pegleg landing gear is made of four pieces. First the two outside covers are cut from 1/16 sheet balsa, then the two inside pieces (indicated by dotted lines on Plate 1) are shaped out of 3/8 sheet. Cement these together, then glue them into a recess cut into the stick. The middle of the gear is hollow, which reduces the weight and at the same time allows room for the single balsa wheel. A model pin pushed through and cemented at both sides of the pant serves as an axle for the wheel. Use 1/32 medium grade sheet balsa for the tail surfaces. Cut out the elevator and two rudders with a sharp razor blade. Smooth them on all sides with fine sandpaper. Do not forget the cut-in on each rudder which makes the lower part easily adjustable. Glue the two rudders in place and use pins to hold them at right angles to the elevator until the glue has set. Finally, cement the whole tail assembly onto the stick, making sure that your alignment is perfect.

WING AND PROP: FIRST trace and then cut the ten ribs for both halves from 1/16 soft balsa. Then, while holding the ribs all firmly together, cut the spar notches. Now pin down a 1/16 by 1/4 medium balsa strip for one trailing edge and cement the center rib to it at a slight angle as shown on Plate 1. The rest of the ribs should be glued in at right angles to your work board.

Now add the 1/16 sq. hard balsa leading edge, edge-wise. For the tips, use 1/16 reed joined to the leading and trailing edges. The top spar is 1/16 hard balsa cemented at each notch. It runs all the way to the tip. Make two halves like this, of course..."

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