The Wolf. Scale sailplane model from MAN, June 1950.
Quote: "An attractive towliner of simple construction and fine performance. The Wolf, by AL Cleave.
THIS model sailplane offers a welcome change from run-of-the-mill contest type gliders, in that it combines exceptional flying qualities with the beauty of a real-life sailplane. Originally built in Germany, a few of these ships have made their way into this country and have become well liked by every pilot who was lucky enough to fly one.
The model closely follows the lines of the original, yet turns in flights that are above average for a flying scale ship. To date several flights have been made of 2 to 4 mins duration, under circumstances that were not the best; and under ideal conditions, much longer flights should be easily obtained by the model Wolf.
Construction has been kept as simple as possible, and any details not explained on the plans are described in the text. The entire fuselage is covered with sheet balsa to represent the plywood covering of the full size Wolf, but on the plans certain portions of the sheet are omitted in order to show a little more clearly the formers and other general construction details. The sections of sheet shown and labeled as 1/32 sheet fuselage sides are the basic framework of the fuselage, and these two sides are cut from fairly hard sheet as the first step in constructing the model. The 'stiffener' pieces shown are strips of 1/16 sq cemented to the inside of the fuselage sides to strengthen them. Next, cut the formers from a rather soft grade of 1/16 sheet, and join the two side pieces with them as shown on the top view, starting at the widest point and working toward either end of the fuselage. After the glue has dried thoroughly, use a small sandpaper block and a piece of very fine paper to sand the formers and bevel the edges of the sheet sides in order to insure a smooth and permanent joint when the rest of the fuselage is covered with balsa.
Now, pick out a piece of soft 1/32 sheet and proceed to cover the remainder of the framework, with the exception of the cockpit, and the points where the wing and stabilizer are attached to the fuselage. Incidently, it is a good idea to sand all the sheet balsa before it is cemented to the fuselage. If the sanding is not done in this manner, it will be non-uniform, since there is a tendency to sand through the sheet in the spots where there is some framework underneath. After all the sheet is in place and the cement is dry, trim off excess wood, then select a medium-hard block of balsa to be used for the nose block. Trace the shapes shown on the side and top views and cut the block roughly to shape with a coping saw. Cement the block securely to the front of the fuselage. When the cement has dried well, use a sharp knife and trim the block to its exact shape, finishing up with sandpaper so that the block and fuselage join together smoothly.
Begin constructing the wing by cutting out twelve ribs marked No.1 and twelve nose ribs marked No.1-A. Two of each of the remaining ribs and nose ribs are required. Cut the spar and leading edge to the sizes shown on the plan from 1/8 sheet, and cut the trailing edge and tips from the same size stock. Trace the wing plan from the magazine pages so as to show the complete structure and work directly over this drawing. Pin the spar to the plan and cement the ribs to the spar in their correct positions. Then add the leading edge, tips, and trailing edge; when the cement has dried lift the structure from the plan. Repeat the procedure for the other wing, and when dry it may be lifted and both wing halves trimmed and sanded. Use a sandpaper block on the top of the wing to insure smoothness and an even taper of the ribs of the outer panels. Join the two wing halves with 1-1/2 of dihedral at each tip.
The outlines of the tail surfaces are cut from a medium grade 1/16 sheet and pinned to position on the plan. Cut the spars for both rudder and stabilizer from 1/16 x 1/8 stock, and the crosspieces from 1/16 sq strips..."
Update 09/01/2019: Added article, thanks to RFJ.
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This model plan (like all plans on Outerzone) is supposedly scaled correctly and supposedly will print out nicely at the right size. But that doesn't always happen. If you are about to start building a model plane using this free plan, you are strongly advised to check the scaling very, very carefully before cutting any balsa wood.
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