Scram (oz2578)

About this Plan

Gas Powered Scram. Flying Aces, July 1938, by Ray Heit.

Quote: "A NIFTY SEVEN-FOOT JOB. Considering its hair-trigger temper on the getaway, this super-speed model had only one logical name. So that's why its designer christened it as he did 'Scram.' Quite light in weight and easy to construct, Scram is equally light and easy in its effect on the pocketbook of the modeler who plans to construct the craft. What more, then, need we say? Except to urge you to - Scram.

DESIGNED exclusively for short motor run flights, Scram I was first flown in the Nationals at Detroit last year. She placed eighth, which was really good considering that the ship had been completed just prior to the big meet and was neither test-flown nor adjusted when the limited motor run event took place. And someone was most favorably impressed with the model's potentialities, for he, she, or it, quietly appropriated Scram I and very nicely saved me the trouble of taking it back home again.

Following the Nationals, Scram II was built from the same plans. And now, with all bugs exterminated, she is a striking model of unique and advanced design and performs excellently.

With her seven-foot span, Scram II has six square feet of wing area. Complete for flight, she weighs three pounds. The engine used in the author's model is a Brown Jr, but any other 1/5 hp motor of similar type will do the trick.

Scram utilizes its low thrust line to full advantage in that during a glide, the low center of gravity is of extreme value in lengthening the distance covered.

Fuselage Constrcution. Scale up the plans to six times their present size. Do this on wrapping paper, drawing paper, or common cardboard. If you're not particularly adept in the use of drawing instruments, you can have the drawings photostatically enlarged for quite low cost. Be sure to caution the photostat man, however, that the sixtime 'blow-up' is exact.

By hammering nails along the longeron outlines on the plans, build up a fuselage jig. Do not hammer the nails through the longerons themselves or you'll weaken them. Space the nails evenly with regard to the curve of the longerons.

Using 1/4 sq balsa, fit the longerons into the jig. Next assemble in their respective places all the upright members and diagonal braces, and glue them securely into place. Let the structure dry for an hour or so, then re-move it from the jig and repeat the operation for the remaining half of the fuselage.

In gluing the two halves of the fuselage together, the tail ends should be glued first, followed by placing the cross members according to the plans. Square the fuselage by frequent checking; that is, by placing the fuselage on a board and using a right triangle against the side..."

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