Pitts Special. Control line scale model biplane.
Quote: "Build your own flying model of the beautiful airplane on the cover. Pitts Special, by Walter Musciano.
BETTY SKELTON'S brilliantly decorated tiny aerobatic biplane is one plane that model builders will find hard to pass up. Besides its obvious good looks, our model is easy to build and handles beautifully at the end of 40 ft lines. The beginner will find construction very elementary while the more advanced modeler will enjoy decorating the model to perfection. This potential Beauty Event winner can accom-modate engines from .19 to .33 cu in displacement, and although we used a Bantam .19, there is plenty of room in this 1-1/2 to the foot scale model for larger engines. The prototype model weighed 17-1/2 oz ready to fly and was built for sport flying; however, it was evident from the very first flight that the addition of a stunt tank and a symmetrical airfoil would create a super scale stuntster. Now let's get to work on this 190 sq in replica of the plane flown by the Feminine International Aerobatic Champion.
Plans are presented one-half size so double all measurements when enlarging them. Perhaps the following construction procedure may seem strange in that we jump from one struc-ture to another and then back again. It has been observed that modelers in general do not wait for the cement to dry, etc, before starting on the next item; therefore we have described the procedure exactly as we built the model. It took 58 hours total to. do the job.
Select 1/4 medium soft balsa sheet for the fuselage sides. Trace the side outline onto them and when these are cut out, join them at the rear and install bulkhead E. Apply cement liberally. While this is drying, cut out the remaining bulk-heads from the specified stock as well as the balsa nose piece. Install the bulkheads one at a time using a clamp, if necessary, to hold the fuselage sides to the bulkheads. The nose piece is cemented in place last. Set this assembly aside to dry thoroughly.
Cut out the lower wing ribs and pin directly to the plans, then add the leading and trailing edges. The lower wing is built in two panels and connected by means of two plywood joiners after each panel is complete with soft balsa tips. Install the joiners plus the center section lead-ing and trailing edges. Make certain of the proper dihedral, apply plenty of cement and set aside to dry.
Unlike the lower wing, the upper wing is built in one panel. Splice the leading edge as shown. This is very important and should not be overlooked. Follow the same construction procedure as in the lower wing.
When both wings are dry, the leading and trailing edges and the tips are cut to shape with a very sharp knife or razor plane. Sandpaper the structures smooth and cover with light weight Silkspan, or Sky-Sail, using a mixture of dope and cement as the adhesive. Do not cover the lower wing center section yet. Cement the lower wing securely to the fuselage.
The landing gear is bent entirely from 1/16 music wire. Bind the joints with soft fine wire (not aluminum) and solder well. Notice that the wheel axles are integral with the V spreader and that the remainder of the landing gear is bent in one piece. Attach the landing gear to the 1/4 plywood firewall and front lower wing joiner. Use crinoline and plenty of cement. Crinoline is the same material as that used for the backing (which you tear off) on Band-Aids; this is cemented to both sides of the bulkhead and joiner, and around the strut. Smear with plenty of cement.
All tail surfaces are cut from 1/8 sheet and sanded to a streamline cross section. Cement the elevator halves to the hardwood spar and install the control horn. Hinge the elevator assembly to the stabilizer and cement the stabilizer to the fuselage top. Cut the hardwood bellcrank support to size and bolt the bellcrank to it. Install the 1/16 wire con-trol rod and cement the bellcrank assembly securely to the fuselage sides. Cover the fuselage bottom with 1/4 sheet and the lower wing center section bottom with Silkspan.
Cut the fuselage top and nose blocks roughly to shape and spot-cement in place. Using a very sharp knife (we use an Xacto No. 26 blade) cut the blocks to shape, as well as the fuselage sides, following the cross sections shown. Sand smooth and apply one coat of Testor's Sanding Sealer. Carefully remove these blocks and hollow with a gouge as the plans indicate. Now cement the blocks permanently in place and sand the entire fuselage..."
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Update 10/01/2019: Added article, thanks to RFJ.
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This model plan (like all plans on Outerzone) is supposedly scaled correctly and supposedly will print out nicely at the right size. But that doesn't always happen. If you are about to start building a model plane using this free plan, you are strongly advised to check the scaling very, very carefully before cutting any balsa wood.
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