Winder (oz2557)

About this Plan

Winder. Control line Speed model. World speed record holder. From Air Trails, May 1953, by S Sgt George Mueller USAF.

Quote: "World's Fastest 'A'! Meet the model that set the speed world on its ear last season - now better'n ever. Winder, by George Mueller.

The Winder is the product of over one year of building and developing, a consistent contest winner and National and FAI record holder, as well as being easy to construct and very stable to fly.

1. Cast dural half-pan used on original. See plan for wooden substitute.
2. Micarta half-former.
3. 1-1/4 in Froom spinner.
4. 6-10 model 35 Tornado Plasticote propeller.
5. Hard balsa engine cowl.
6. K&8 Torpedo .19 engine.
7. 1/16 in dia. CS soft rivets.
8. .012 ST aluminum wing material.
9. Pen bladder and penny balloon pressure tank.
10. Hard balsa upper fuselage shell.
11. Silk-covered surfaces, filled and sprayed with Dupont 'Dulux' synthetic enamel.
12. 1/16" plywood tail surfaces.
13. Pinked tape, sewed hinge.
14. 1/16" plywood full-length edge to upper half.
15. Mahogany lower fuselage shell.
16. Flexible cable lead-out lines.
17. Hardwood wing tips.
18. .012 ST aluminum front line guide.
19. Mahogany wing spar with lightening holes.
20. Dural bellcrank.
21. Hard balsa wing 'lugs'.

The fuselage top half is made from a piece of 1 x 1-1/2 x 10-1/4 in hard, straight-grained balsa wood. Glue this block to a 1/16 in mahogany plywood crutch which is the outline of the fuselage design. Make sure the crutch does not go all the way back to the end of the fuselage, but just far enough so that the stab will match up to the end of the crutch. Draw the design of the cowl on the top of the block and carve the fuselage shape up to, and around, the cowl platform. Hollow out the top half of the fuselage. The fuselage wall is not less than 1/8 inthick. Don't forget the airplane needs strength since it is made of balsa. Make the bottom half of the fuselage. On my latest ship, I used mahogany so it will be very strong, as well as comparatively light in weight.

Notice that the front half of the lower side of the fuselage is the pan. This may be made of mahogany, with a 1/8 in aluminum crutch to hold the engine and top half in place. Also an aluminum one-half pan may be used as on the record-breaking airplane. My own one-half pan was made by Gene Stiles and Jack Friedland, but any commercial pan may be used just by taking a hack-saw and cutting it in half.

Glue the stab onto the top half, then glue the rear section of the bottom half to the top half. Fit the engine to the top half, then start construction of the cowl.

This is a very important part of the airplane since it streamlines the engine and provides the proper cooling it needs. A pressure cowl is used. It has proven to be the best type yet for this engine. The cowl sides are made in two pieces, left and right. When cut to proper shape, glue in place and allow to dry thoroughly. By making the sides in two pieces, the cooling passages may be cut into place very easily. Next, the top is glued into posi-tion, then shaped to fit the sides of the cowl. Cut all holes into the cowling at this point - exhaust, glow plug hole and venturi scoop.

Now comes one of the most important parts - the rudder. It is made of 1/16 in mahogany, as are the stab and elevator. Draw a line through the center of the fuselage, then cut a slot into the fuselage and insert the rudder, glue and block up straight and allow to dry. Make sure the rudder is straight, as this is your control of the directional stability of the airplane.

The spar is next to go on the fuselage. It is made of mahogany also. Cut holes in the fuselage parallel to the parting half of the fuselage and insert the spar in place and glue thoroughly. Next, install the bellcrank and pushrod. At this point your fuselage is ready to be sanded to final shape. Then is covered with silk for strength and for a good paint job.

Now come the wings. They are made of .012 ST aluminum. This may be purchased at your local airport. Use the pattern shown on the plans. Cut around outline, then bend down the center line. Next, find a level place on your work bench and mark the holes along the trail-ing edge, drill with a 1/16 drill, then push rivets through and pound over with a small hammer, holding the wing in place with clamps during the riveting process. The rivets also may be purchased at your local airport or war surplus store: 1/16 diameter and over 1/4 in long.

Lead-out wires are installed; allow excess in case of error when bending the loops on the end. Now we start fitting the wings into place. First of all find a level place on the work bench, with a compass mark a line parallel to the parting halves centering through the wing spar. This will be a perfect alignment to the thrust line for the wings and tail assemblies. Trim the wing panels to fit the curve of the fuselage as closely as possible..."

Supplementary file notes

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