De Havilland DH.1A (oz2533)

About this Plan

De Havilland DH.1A. Scale free flight WW I pusher biplane model. Wingspan 41 in, for .049 engines.

Quote: "Nats modellers swooned over this fine WWI pusher bipe. De Havilland DH.1A, by John Winter.

We had a problem. After seeing our de Havilland DH.1A at the 1957 Nationals, the Editor of Flying Models asked us to prepare a construction article on the plane for publication. We were pleased and somewhat flattered and (the price of living and model materials what it is) agreed to do so. Here we sat, blank paper in the typewriter and an equally blank look on our face. How to start? What clever wording or catchy cliches or beguiling description to persuade you, the reader, to drop everything and start making a de Havilland for yourself?

Then, the light of truth stole upon us. The written word does not catch the eye of the page-flipping modeller - but rather the photographs of the models will stop him cold if he is a prospect for a realistic out-of-the-rut scale plane, or is a guy who enjoys seeing a replica of a real flesh-and-blood (or rather, spruce-and-linen) aircraft fly as a plane should.

True, a confirmed RC man will mutter 'No room for my receiviator or escapmatizer, poor penetrational qualities too,' and flip on to greener electronic pastures; and the yo-yo stunt fan will pause but briefly in his search for a Super Looper. But you, the guy we were worried about, needed no hard sell spiel from us. If you have read this far, you're hooked! The pictures stopped you, a glance at the drawings convinced you, and you sold yourself. Congratulations, you couldn't have made a better choice. You'll enjoy the plane from the assembling of the rugged little bathtub body (on which all else hangs) to the moment when, satisfied with the glide, you ease her on to the still evening air and gaze at the first of many realistic powered flights.

A few words about this, the forerunner of a long line of Geoffrey de Havilland's creations. A production airplane in 1915, the DH.1A was a very stable and easily managed craft, sporting a 120-horse Beardmore water-cooled engine giving it a speed of about 90 mph and a landing speed of about 50 mph. It did a job when needed but was no match for the onslaught of the newly designed, monoplane fighters with synchronized machine guns. As a matter of record, several of the 'Bloody Baron' von Richthofen's conquests were this type of de Havilland. Outmoded by heavier armed and more maneuverable aircraft, the DH.1A was then employed for operations in the Palestine area.

As a model the DH.1A has much to recommend itself. Generous tail surfaces, a full three degrees of dihedral angle on both wings, plus a prop-saving pusher configuration are a few of its good traits. Others are an ability to soak up punishment and remain flyable, plus a very distinctive appearance that will catch the eye and give you a new lease on model-building life should your interests be waning due to the sameness in the current crop of planes.

To further erase all doubts, bear in mind that once an aluminum or tin template is made it does not take much longer to make 10 dozen ribs than to make 2 dozen; that the interplane struts will consume no more time than a well made pylon mounting; that the extra evening or two needed to add the interesting details is time well invested, and that contrary to appearances the prop can be flipped easily between the boom structures.

Only the high points will be touched on relating to construction inasmuch as the drawings are largely self-explanatory. Also, anyone tackling this model should have made at least a few simple sport models first. This is not a plane for a beginner, although he may wish to keep it in mind for a future project after getting a little building and flying experience. If some phase of the construction baffles you, at first glance, a little thought and ingenuity should provide a solution. Don't hesitate to ask a more experienced modeler for help if you're really stuck. If there just are no more experienced builders in town then drop us a selfaddressed stamped envelope cuz we collect stamps.

The logical place to start construction is the stubby little fuselage, since everything else 'grows' from it. Hardwood (readily available at most hobby shops) is specified, in that weight is secondary to strength in this application. Good cementing procedure should of course be observed, throughout. Do as much of the interior detail work as possible as you go along and you won't be faced with such tragedies as an uninstallable instrument panel after the turtle deck has been applied. Be sure the landing gear, center section wing struts and firewall are secured firmly before planking or sheeting around them as indicated.

Plan your motor mounting system in advance so if blind nuts need be secured to the inside of the firewall this can be done before it becomes inaccessible. Incidentally, when choosing the power plant you are going to use, keep in mind that a left-hand rotating engine is not necessary since some fine left-hand lowpitch plastic props are now on the market. We employed a Tornado 6-3 pusher. A little ingenuity will go a long way toward making those scale details come across as an aid to realism.

We found, for instance, that excellent seat cushions could be effected by roughing the pad shape out of soft balsa, covering it with bits of material such as an old O.D. handkerchief provides, pushing in a few pin heads to simulate upholstery buttons and securing the whole works into the aluminum bucket seats. For goodness sakes don't forget the seat belts, no 'chutes in them days y'know!

A feature which may need a little clarification for those who have not employed it are the laminated strip tail surface outlines (and wing tips if you prefer not to bend bamboo by the Bunsen burner's bright blaze). The 1/32 x 1/8 basswood strips needed for a particular part are cut oversize, dunked in hot water for a few minutes until pliable and bent around a row of pins delineating the inner edge of the part. When the required number of strips are in place they are secured with an outer row of pins and allowed to set in shape as they dry out. Note that no cement has been used yet. When thoroughly dry, the outer pins are removed, cement is introduced..."

Update 11/12/2023: Replaced this plan with a clearer copy, scanned from fullsize, thanks to dfritzke.

Direct submission to Outerzone.

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