Just Right (oz2492)

About this Plan

Just Right. Free flight model for .020 PeeWee engine. From American Modeler, November 1958.

Update 4/1/2024: Added article, thanks to theshadow.

Quote: "JUST RIGHT Pee Wee FF for fun and small spaces.

Just Right was designed for the Pee Wee and meant for fun flying. Contest work wasn't even considered. This model is easily flown in a small space without the headaches that mark a touchy competition job.

JR is simple to build and easy to fly. With an investment of less than $10 you will have all that is needed for a month of Sundays. Just Right can be hand launched; however, if there is a suitable smooth spot available its take-offs will delight you.

To start construction, cut the sides from 1/16 sheet balsa - all the balsa in this model will be hard except for the soft wing tip blocks. Cut out the formers, all 1/16 sheet except where the en-gine and landing gear attaches. Cement rear section of fuselage together; when dry, add the formers, working from rear to front. Bend landing gear to shape, bind it in place, then cement in that former.

Note that the firewall cements so the engine will have downthrust. Be sure that this former is well cemented. Several thin coats of cement added as the previous one dries is lots better than one heavy coat. Glue top and bottom sheets in place with slow drying cement; glue all formers and edges, using pins to hold the sheets tightly. When dry trim the edges and sand entire fuselage. Several coats of cement wiped around the landing gear area will strengthen this portion of the fuselage. Dope the entire fuselage with several coats - sand between coats until a smooth finish results.

Stabilizer and rudder tip are cut from 3/32 sheet balsa; sand to streamline cross section and cement in place; check that the rudder is straight. The tail assembly cements where it connects to the fuselage. Then dope in the same manner as the fuselage.

JR's wing is easy since there are no notches to cut for spars. Cut the ribs and lay out the wing over the plan. Make the Wing halves, then make the center section using dihedral gussets cut of 1/8 plywood. These should raise the wing tips 2 in above the center section. Add the wing tip blocks and shape as shown. These are cut from soft balsa since it isn't good to have heavy tips. Sand entire wing and recement the wing joints.

Wing is covered with heavy tissue or light silk. Dope until it will shed water. Add the wing hooks to the fuselage directly below the wing; this will help the wing from shifting. A strip of rubber cement to the top edge of the fuselage where the wing rests on it will also prevent wing shifting. Shifting will cause the model to fly differently each flight.

The entire model should be fuel proofed (we used Tuff - several coats gave a durable surface). A small washer is soldered to keep the wheels in place. Wheels must turn freely if your model is to make good takeoffs.

Add weight to either end to balance model as shown. Then glide it. If the glide is a little steep raise the wing's leading edge; if model is stalling raise the trailing edge. Start the engine; with it running slow set the model on the ground and release it. Watch the flight turn any correction is made with the rudder. This, however, should be done a very little each time since rudder adjustments are always critical.

Run the engine on a full tank and time it, then when you fly start the engine and hold the model until only 30 to 45 seconds motor time remains, then launch it. After the model is flown several times power can be increased. While this is not a contest model it can still fly far. If you run on a full tank of fuel you're apt to spend more time chasing the model than it took you to build it!"

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