Hot Foot - Stunt biplane model for control line. Wingspan 39 in, wing area 500 sq in. From MAN, April 1953. Harry Williamson.
Quote: "Finished in cream with red trim, this highly maneuverable biplane for 32's to 'sixties' solves all the two winger problems and is stunting fool to boot. Hot Foot, by Harry Williamson.
How many 'bipes' have you seen at the stunt circle in recent years? It seems to us that they should be more in evidence, since a biplane is to aerobatics what ham is to eggs.
Why haven't they been more in evidence? Some of the boys, when questioned about this unnatural phenomena reply that - it's impossible to keep the upper wing glued on during a good wringing out. Others, that - it's too much work, building an extra wing, and only have one ship! Well, maybe so, but whatever reasons others offer, it's all really worthwhile, in our opinion. Why not try it yourself and see if you don't agree?
Since there seems to be little to be done about adding new maneuvers to the stunt pattern and since the skill of most contestants is of the highest order, one of the few avenues of escape left from this monotony is the addition of stunt ships to these affairs that look and fly like full sized ships.
Our reply to this problem is the Hot Foot! This job can keep up with the best of the 'table-winged' stunt ships so prevalent today.
The Hot Foot is an unequal span bipe with the generous gap and stagger necessary for top performance. The ship as presented here will accommodate .32 to .65 engines. Built in accordance with drawings and instructions which follow, this job will perform equally well with one of the new, lightweight and red hot .35's or one of the .60's that have been gathering dust and rust on the workbench for a long time. Those with Atwood Triumphs can cheer up too.
Although originally designed for the Fox .59 as shown on drawings, the original ship has proven to be excellent when powered with an Atwood Model JH Super Champ. Properly constructed and balanced, the Hot Fool is a potential winner at any contest and will hang together as well as any ship.
The span of upper wing is 39 in. The lower span is 32 in. Wing area, total, equals 500 sq in. Overall length from the tip of the spinner to the end of the tail feathers is 28-3/8 in. Kinda stubby, you say. That's the beauty of a Bipe - it doesn't take so doggoned much fuselage to get empennage where it belongs in relation to the wing. That's one reason why Rod Jocelyn, Betty Skelton and numerous other aerobatic pilots still fly them.
The weight of the original model, ready to fly, with an Atwood 60 under cowl, is exactly 40 oz, working out to a wing loading of 11.5 oz per sq ft. Naturally, a .35 job will weigh in at somewhat less.
The Hot Foot as the name implies, is a fast-moving airplane but not at the expense of maneuverability. Control response is smooth and instantaneous and when balanced where shown, not the least, bit jumpy.
The average modeller has, in the past, avoided inverted engines like a cat avoids water. Actually, a good rotary valve engine operates as well upside down as any other way and, with confidence gained through familiarity, we think more and more stunt ships will appear with inverted powerplants in the next several years. We flipped the engine over in the Hot Foot, to maintain the realism we mentioned earlier and haven't had any trouble at all.
With the addition of an arrestor hook and engine speed control Hot Foot is a natural for a carrier event trainer. (If the model is built for this purpose, don't skimp on materials since weight is relatively important and should come in at close to 3-1/2 pounds for good landing qualities.)
A word of caution before starting construction! Determine the engine you will use and, if necessary, relocate engine mounts, so that thrust line will occur as shown on drawings. If this precaution is not taken, your version of the Hot Foot might not look like the drawings and will not permit cowling or engine to it properly.
Select good, firm, medium hard 1/8 in sheet balsa and trace and cut out fuselage sides. The 1/16 in plywood doublers, as shown in shaded outline, should be cut out and cemented under pressure to each of the sides. Mark location of each former on both sides; do this carefully to insure correct align ment of fuselage.
Cut out all formers from material specified on drawings. Cement plywood firewall, F-2 balsa former F-4 to one side only. Lay this side down flat on workbench and, after these two formers are rigidly fixed in place, lay opposite side in place and cement securely in place, making certain both sides are square at front and top. Add former F-3 and work out toward tail, beginning with former F-5. If this job is done carefully, all parts should fit with ease and fuselage will be straight and square..."
Update 24/10/2018: added article, thanks to RFJ.
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