Lil Dynamite (oz2477)
About this Plan
Lil Dynamite. Full stunt control line model. June 1957 MAN.
Direct submission to Outerzone.
Update 8/9/2023: Replaced this plan with a clearer copy, thanks to theshadow.
Update 8/9/2023: Added article, thanks to theshadow.
Quote: "For the much neglected .15, a clean looking, high per-formance stunter. The top. Lil Dynamite, by Larry Scarinzi.
The Lil Dynamite is a clean looking and excellent performing model designed for a much neglected engine size. A Torp .15 was used in the original. With a .19 it should be red hot.
The value of this prize engine was proven to me last winter when I mounted a Tarp .15 in one of my smaller Fox .35 stunt models. Surprising to me, the ship still did the full stunt pattern reliably, only at a noticeably reduced speed.
Because this engine would haul a bulky 22 oz stunt model through the stunt pattern, it was quite obvious that this engine would be capable of high performance in a smaller, more trim design. To put a .15 ship on a competing level with bigger stunt models, the design had to be efficient to utilize the power available.
To satisfy my desires, I wanted a small, light model with clean lines and good nnish which would also perform well. Also I wanted it to be simple to build. Getting the most out of our building time is probably what the average modeler is working for.
The biggest single simplicity factor in this model is the wing construction. The fuselage is partially constructed and then the spar is slid in place. Only the mainspar, leading edge and trailing edge extend through the fuselage sides. As you notice, the mainspar is only a 312" square balsa .strip. with a center doubler. This type of spar has been used for many years in .35 powered combat models and later in .35 powered stunt models by myself and has proven very successful. The wing was not designed to be rigid, but instead to 'give' or flex somewhat as the airloads increase, as when pulling square or sharp maneuvers.
The method of achieving the tapered wing was simply to taper the trailing edge. This greatly simplifies the job of cutting out wing ribs.
The landing gear mount makes use of the mainspar by using it as a sound mount, eliminating the need for an additional bulkhead.
The orignial model's performance was surprisingly good. It was flown on 52% foot, .010 diameter lines and acted just about identical to the bigger .35 powered stunt models that I had been more used to flying. The speed of this model was just about 67 miles per hour, which, on these shorter lines; made it quite comparable to a .35 stunt model on longer lines. One distinct advantage can be claimed for shorter lines, however. I feel that it is much easier to fly a model extremely close to the ground through maneuvers when you're closer to the model.
On its maiden flight, the little engine screamed and refused to miss a beat through any of the maneuvers performed with this ship. It seemed as though it wanted to say - there, I'm as good as those big .35's any day. It flew reliably enough to make any .35 flier feel at home.
Before starting on construction, let me discuss one more point. A lot of models built from magazine plans do not perform as well as the original. The designer knows what he's after and follows a definite course to achieve this. If other builders understood his goals, then they would most likely get results as good as the designer's, and possibly better, because they have the designers ideas plus their own.
When building this model, aim to build it as light as possible. Take care in your choice of wood and applyingyour finish. The original weighed just under ozs. It will carry more weight, but will probably come out tail-heavy if too much weight is added. Remember a .15 has to fly this.
Balance is the final point I want to bring out. No matter how you prefer to describe it, a tail-heavy model is sensitive to fly. This model should balance where it is indicated or foreward of this point. With just normal care this is easy to accomplish.
Start construction of this model by cutting out all necessary parts. The wing ribs may be easily cut out if a rib template is made of scrap tin. It is an easy task to make up a set of ribs by cutting around this template on 1/16 stock..."
Supplementary file notes
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User commentsI doubt if this is your problem. I've seen this plan before. If I build the plane as shown, the bellcrank placement is such that the leadouts will not run through the ribs inside the wing but rather exposed, above the wing. I thought of using a larger bellcrank and bending the ends down to place the leadouts where they should be. Don't know if that's a viable solution or not. Thanks for addressing this issue.
norman - 06/02/2013
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