Fairchild 24 Rancher (oz246)

About this Plan

Fairchild 24 Rancher (Ranger?) 36 in span, CO2 or rubber, 1948 kit by Berkeley.

Planfile includes full build instructions.

Quote: "INSTRUCTIONS FOR BUILDING AND FLYING

National Championship Flying Scale Models are of advanced structure and design, but should offer no difficulties in construction once the plans are carefully studied. Before beginning the actual assembly of the model, look over the plans and pictures carefully. If any difficulties appear, try to construct the model as far as possible. Most of the construction wiil become simple as work progresses. In all cases, take your time, making sure that all parts are correctly cut and aligned.

Select a flat workboard, or workbench for layout work. It is best to have a model knife, pliers, and sandpaper handy.

FUSELAGE. Cover the fuselage side view plan with wax paper. Lay the 1/8 square longerons in place. Use pins for support and alignment of the longerons. (Do not stick the pins through the wood.) Insert the upright cross-pieces between the longerons. To build the second side exactly the same, build it directly over the first side. When the cement has dried, separate the two sides. Proceed to put the horizontal cross pieces in place. Insert the cross pieces at the cabin first. Then, cement the rear of the fuselage together at the rudder post.

Cement the remaining cross members in place. Cement the fuselage formers in place and insert the stringers in position. Glue up the nosing, using balsa blocks. Shape the block to approximate section with. knife and rough sandpaper. Then cement it to the fuselage and blend the lines smoothly into the fuselage front. Cut the face of the nose plug to the shape shown in the front view. Drill a hole for the propeller shaft, providing approximately 1 degree downthrust and 3 degrees right thrust.

PROPELLER. The special type folding propeller used was designed to give maximum thrust and minimum vibration). In order that the blades will fit flush on the sides of the nose piece, the hub has been designed to give a rolling motion to the blades as they fold back. Trace the blade outline shape on the shaped propeller in the kit. Cut the blades to the outline shape and sand the propeller to an airfoil cross-section, cupping the back of each blade to a depth of 1/8 at the widest section. Finish the propeller with several coats of dope.

After the propeller is completely finished, cut the blades away from the hub. Slide the stamped hinges over the formed wire fitting and cement the fitting in the grooves out into the propeller blade.

Cut the hub as shown in the Prop Hinge detail drawing and anchor the hinge stampings into the hub with plenty of cement. Replace the small fillers after the cement has dried. Cut the large face bushing as shown in the nose plug sketch. Insert the eyelet end into N-1 but do not cement it at this time. Cement an eyelet on the front of the nose block. Push the shaft through the nose plug, slip a 1/4 washer, then a tensioner spring, then another 1/4 washer over the shaft. Push the shaft through the propeller hub and form the winder hook eye. Cement the spur of the shaft firmly against the propeller. Set the nose plug into the fuselage and fold back the propeller blades. Determine the position where they best fit the sides of the nose and cement the stop bushing in place to guarantee this position when the rubber has unwound.

CO-2 ENGINE INSTALLATION. A CO-2 Engine as manufactured by Herkimer Tool & Model Works may be installed as this model is the ideal size for this engine. To mount the engine, cut grooves in the balsa side blocks and slide a piece of 1/16 plywood into the grooves. The capsule container is mounted at the position shown, on one side of the fuselage. A panel on the opposite side is left open to install capsules. Use standard 7 in propeller with the CO-2 engine.

WING AND TAIL SURFACES. Shape the trailing edge of the wing to a wedge shaped cross section and pin it in position on the plan. Pin spars in position. Cut out all the wing ribs. Set Ribs W-3 in position. Pin the leading edge against them and cement. Attach the wing tips which are cut from the printed sheets. Block up the wing tips to the required dihedral of 1-1/2 in and cement the spar reinforcements in place, taking care to prevent a warped wing assembly by holding the parts securely while drying. Add the remaining ribs, trimming them as necessary to fit. Cut out the stabilizer and rudder outline pieces and assemble them on the plans. Use 1/16 flat stock under outline pieces to properly center them in relation to the spars. Pin the spars in place and fit the ribs. When dry, remove the assembly from the plan and shape to a typical streamlined section. Hinge the rudder to the fin with soft wire.

COVERING AND ASSEMBLY. Sandpaper the entire framework thoroughly to remove the rough spots that may mar the smooth lines of the finished model. Cement the cabin windows and windshield in position. Be careful when cementing the celluloid as celluloid is soluable in cement. Use only very small quantities of cement and be sure that it does not smear. Cement the dowel pegs into the fuselage where shown to hold the wing rubber bands. Cover the stabilizer before attaching it to the fuselage. However, the rudder is covered after it is attached in order that it may be faired directly into the rear of the fuselage.

The covering material included with this kit is Silkspan which is a water insoluable paper and which may be applied to the framework either wet or dry. Attach the tissue with as little dope as possible to avoid sticking to anything except the outlines. If applied dry, spray the surfaces lightly with water and apply two coats of dope when dry. Tail surfaces are covered on both sides. Coat all wood parts with dope.

After the wing is covered, sand, the wing struts to a streamline section. Cement them to the wing after cutting away a small portion of the paper covering. The struts are not attached to the fuselage in any way in order that the wing may be shifted for adjustment and removed for transportation. Details such as vents, exhaust stacks, etc., can be made from scrap material. Decorative details such as license numbers are supplied in decal form and should be applied as directed on the paper backing. Control markings should be made with black India ink.

FLYING. The model is powered by a 14-strand motor of 3/16 flat rubber 26 in long and lubricated with regular rubber lubricant or green soap. By stretching the rubber and winding in slowly about 800 turns can be packed into this model, providing a long prop run and a steady climb. Attach the wing and check the ship for balance. Use stock rubber bands to hold the wing in position. The model should balance at the indicated line. Add weight in the nose if necessary.

Glide the ship over tall grass and adjust to give a smooth descent. If the angle is too steep, slip a wedge under the leading edge of the wing. Place a wedge under the trailing edge if it stalls. Put about 150 turns into the rubber for the trial flight and hand launch. Perfect the glide, adjusting the rudder to fly the model in right circles of about 40 to 50 feet. Increase the number of winds, adjusting the ship to fly in right circles of similar diameter under power by placing thin wedges behind the nose plug to tilt the thrust line in the desired direction.

After familiarizing yourself with the characteristics of the ship, stretch the rubber about four times its length and wind to capacity with Na hand drill. The performance of the model will increase as you learn how to handle her. Good Luck... and may your future models all be Berkeley Models. "

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