Goldwinga (oz2401)

About this Plan

Goldwinga. Rubber powered pusher sport model. Wingspan 22-1/2 in.

Quote: "PUSHER-TYPE model aircraft are few and far between, so if you want to step into the spotlight at your next club flying session why not build the little pusher 'Goldwinga'? Construction is simple and with accurate building and careful balancing you'll have a real little 'out-of-the-rut' flyer on your hands!

Details of construction are on the plan, but one or two extra tips may speed that moment of your first test flight. Choose medium (not hard) grade balsa. On completion lightly sand the fuselage, wing. fin and tail frames, this helps to give a good covering aFtd saves weight. When joining the two wing halves check that there is an equal amount of dihedral beneath each tip.

If you really want to perk-up performance (and you feel up to it!) carve a 6 in diameter balsa propeller, an7-1/4 inch diameter Keil Kraft, cut down to 6 in. You'll need some folded leaded or old cement tube firmly wedged in the nose block weight rear to achieve correct balance.

Balancing your completed model with motor installed) is most important. Decorate your little pusher to suit with coloured tissue, never coloured dope, coloured dope weighs a ton!

Having balanced your model choose a calm day and some long grass for your first gliding tests: and 'power-on' flights. If on your first launching the model dives, remove some of the nose weight. If it stalls (climbs too steeply and falls back on its tail) add a little noseweight.

Obtain a straight glide. From approximately a shoulder height launch your model should touch down about 20-25 feet in front of you. For power flights make sure your rubber motor is well lubricated. Use a hook in the chuck of a geared drill and stretch wind the rubber motor. For the First flight give about 200-250 turns (about 60 on a 3-1/2:1 geared winder). To avoid a sharp turn resulting from propeller torque, cement a 1/16 sq strip of balsa down the left hand side of the propeller block (model viewed from the rear).

If your model stalls under power inerea.ve the down thrust angle (this is unlikely as generous downthrust is already built-in). If it fails to climb reduce the downthrust angle by a 1/16 sq strip cemented along the bentom edge or the prop block. Take time with your trimming and you will be rewarded with steady and consistent flights. Good luck."

Direct submission to Outerzone.

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