Mach None (oz2285)
About this Plan
Mach None. Radio control sports model. For 2/3 channel RC and Cox Tee Dee .049-.051 power.
The original Mach None kit used the Ace foam wing. This here is a modern redrawn plan that shows details for a built-up wing construction.
Quote: "Before beginning construction let's analyze a few things about the Mach None. First, if you're a novice without much flying experience, put the kit on the shelf and wait until you've gained enough flying expertise that you feel you can handle a high performance airplane. Just because this airplane is powered by an .049 does not mean that it's a trainer for the beginner - the Mach None is truly a performance plane with the neutral stability, axial roll characteristics, smooth elevator response, high speed, and solid tracking of a modern competition aircraft.
A word of caution for those of you who believe that 'more is always better' and are already making plans to put a .10 or .15 engine in the Mach None to 'improve' its performance - DONT! First fly it as designed and discover for yourself what this package can do. Then if you insist on 'moving up' be prepared for a disappointment. It has been done with similar types of planes and a Max .10 produces little improvement while increasing all up weight considerably. A Max .15 has also been flown and at this point all resemblance to 'flying' ends and 'rocketry' begins.
For good information on break-in and care of the Cox Tee Dee engines, read Larry Renger's article in the February '74 issue of RCM.
It is a good idea to plan your radio installation before and during construction, especially with a small plane. If the full schedule of acrobatic maneuvers are required, it win be necessary to have coupled ailerons/rudder or a third servo for rudder. If everything but stuff like spins and snap rolls are OK, ailerons and elevator are quite sufficient. Don't throw the surfaces too much - keep the ailerons at ± 3/32 in (3/16 total) and elevator at ± 3/16 in (3/8 total).
If absolute neutral stability is desired, that is, if you want the plane to fly upside down exactly as it does right side up, the wing can be sanded to a more symmetrical airfoil by re-contouring the bottom of the front 1/3 of the wing. Because this changes the centerline of the front of the wing, 0° incidence will have to be reestablished by trimming the wing saddle at the rear.
If you're going to be flying in some tough, thick weeds it would probably be a good idea to protect the leading edge of the wing from dings with some 1/8 dowel embedded into the foam.
Keep the finish light. A lot of paint adds a lot of weight. The plane should come in at about 22 oz. all up otherwise the wing loading will be too high and performance will suffer.
Contact cement the 1/64 ply doublers to the fuse side, starting 2-3/16 from the front, keeping doubler flush with the top. Make a right and a left side!
Trim away excess ply. Mark locations of F2 and F3 using the dimensions indicated on the side view. Make the marks perpendicular to the fuse top. Glue two 17-5/8 in pieces of triangular stock along the top rear of each side. Bevel and fit two 5 pieces of triangular stock along the top front of each side. Glue 12 pieces of 1/8 sq balsa on the bottom from the rear of F3 back. Glue two 4-3/4 pieces of 1/8 sq balsa on the bottom to fit between the firewall and F2.
Drill the firewall for the engine mount and fuel line you plan to use. Either wood screw or machine screws and blind nuts may be used to secure the mount to the firewall. Drill F2 to accommodate and cabling for the radio and also drill a 1/8 dia hole in the center of the bottom of F2 for the wing dowel. Drill another 1/8 hole 3/4 in above the wing dowel hole for the landing gear bolt. (F2 is wider than F3.)
Plan your elevator servo location and drill F3 for the control system; Flexible Golden Rod is recommended but pushrod will work One also.
Cement formers F2 and F3 into position. To make sure they're square, it's a good idea to draw a line on the work surface and put perpendicular lines at the former locations-assemble the fuse upside down over these lines.
Epoxy the firewall in, butting it up against the ply doublers. Glue the rear of the fuselage together, maintaining alignment - it will be necessary to bevel the triangular stock at the rear. Glue in the 1/4 nose doublers. Trim the doublers to clear the engine and mount..."
Note: for more detail and backstory on the initial development of the Mach None design, circa 1973, see the Owen Kampen Pacer (oz7186) listing, which includes a long and interesting article.
Update 23/12/2016: Added kit instructions, thanks to Gene.
Update 19/01/2020: Added alternative scan of original kit instructions, thanks to JimHalliburton.
Quote: "Good Day Mary and Steve. I recently found the box for an Ace Mach None kit, that was my father's. In it was the original ACE Kit instructions. I had it scanned and printed for my own use. I have attached a copy of the scan for you to add to the Mach None page. Yours to use."
Update 18/03/2020: Added review from RCM April 1976, thanks to RFJ.
Supplementary file notes
Kit instructions, 3 pages, OCR text and pics.
Kit instructions, alternate. This shows the instructions sheet as it originally appeared in the kit box.
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User commentsHere is a picture of my old Mach None, built from the Ace kit [more pics 003]. Cannon 3 radio using 2 servos. That is my brother-in-law and my sister in the picture, circa 1978?
dfritzke - 24/10/2016
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- Mach None (oz2285)
- Plan File Filesize: 169KB Filename: Mach_None_oz2285.pdf
- Supplement Filesize: 144KB Filename: Mach_None_oz2285_instructions.pdf
- Supplement Filesize: 3172KB Filename: Mach_None_oz2285_instructions_alt.pdf
- Supplement Filesize: 834KB Filename: Mach_None_oz2285_review.pdf
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