Gulfhawk (oz2246)

About this Plan

Gulfhawk. Free flight rubber scale biplane.

Quote: "The air-minded youngsters of today invariable visualize a trim, speedy plane when associated with Major Al Williams, who has a most enviable record with fast ships.

The latest Williams Gulfhawk is the Grumman 622, built especially for him. This amazing little ship is powered with a Wright, single-row Cyclone of 1,000 hp and has a top speed of 290 mph. The G22 differs only slightly from the navy fighter.

The beautiful color scheme of orange, striped with blue and white, stands out under almost any light condition and can easily be one of the handsomest models to grace your collection.

The model has been designed carefully to preserve the sleek lines and features. It is extremely fast and stable with the proper adjustments made.

Fuselage: Cement the two 1-1/2 x 3 x 18 inch soft blocks together, with several drops near the center so they may be separated later. Trace the side view of the fuselage, less cowl, onto one side of the block so that the bottom curve is at the edge. The block will not be quite high enough at the top, so saw along the bottom curve and cement the remaining piece to the top. Then complete the side-view blank (a larger block combination may be used if desired.)

If the top and side views are traced onto thin cardboard and cut out for templates, marking the lines on the soft wood will be made easier. Draw the top view onto the top face, using the joint between the blocks as a center line and saw away the surplus.

Now sand the blank to smooth the irregularities of the saw cuts. Start carving at point C, otherwise the blank is likely to be spoiled. Cut templates of cardboard of A. B. and C to aid in the final shaping. After carving closely as necessary. sand the remainder of the wood away. It is important now to dope and sand the fuselage.

The next step is to hollow the wheel deviressions, or landing-gear wells. A cardboard template of the outline will insure getting both sides alike. Carve the wheel wells 3/16 deep and the strut wells 3/16 deeper. Sand and dope until glossy.

Split the blocks apart and hollow the halves. A spoon-shaped tool is the best for this purpose, or a thin double-edged razor blade, broken in half lengthwise - the ends of one half bent back and inserted 5/8 apart in an improvised handle - will do.

Carve to paper thinness back of the rear hook position and gradually increase the thickness to 1/8 at the front. Leave plenty of thickness around the wheel wells. A 1/16 sheet bulkhead should be fitted in halves at point C. Insert the snakelike rear hook with plenty of cement just at the time the two halves of the fuselage are being cemented back together.

Cowl: From the remaining square end of the fuselage block, saw off the necessary length for the cowl. Carve and polish and then hollow it. The motor block is merely a 1/4 x 2 in disk with the cylinder detail done in bass-relief. The 9 cylinders are laid out, carved, sanded, doped and lacquered black. The fin impressions are then made by closely spaced knife cuts..."

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