Hawker Fury II - Peanut scale model.
Quote: "HAWKER FURY II. HIGH SPEED FURY II. By E Fillon.
THE HAWKER FURY is an excellent subject for a rubber scale model of any size with its long nose, generously proportioned tail surfaces and good ground clearance to the motor thrust line, allowing a large flying propeller to be accommodated. Couple these practical features together with attractive lines and a wide range of alternative squadron markings and we have plenty of potential for making an eye-catching model.
Although the construction of this model is simple in principle it would be something of a challenge to the builder entirely new to Peanut Scale modelling. If you have never built such a small model before, the tiny sections of material involved will be quite unfamiliar and the overall fragility rather daunting. If you have built several Peanuts already and are looking for a slightly more demanding subject, then one of these Furys just might be what you are looking for.
The fuselages are unusual in that the compound carved nose and cowlings are made from block foam, carved and sanded to shape. Blue styrofoam or the lightest grade of Rohacell are preferable to ordinary white foam. Both will sand and carve very well and Rohacell will take cellulose finishes. It may be stating the obvious but whichever foam you decide to use, experiment beforehand with glues and finishing methods. Hot wire cutting is only really suitable for white polystyrene foams. White PVA glue or aliphatic resins are best for glueing the foam to the framework.
The nose and cowlings could even be skinned in aluminium. foil attached by means of narrow strips of double-sided Sellotape along the panel line joints, thus avoiding the risk of paint damaging the foam.
Special jigs are drawn to make the assembly of the all important cabane struts an easy job. With the jigs pinned in place over the plan, the fuselage is taped to these inverted, and the struts pushed into the top decking and aligned over the plan while the glue sets. The bamboo for the wing tips and tail outlines can be stripped from any piece of garden cane, although the larger the diameter of the piece from which it is cut, the easier it is to control. Use a heavy duty knife, ie a Stanley knife, and a good straight edge to cut strips a little larger in section than the finished sizes, then sand them down to the required sizes. Straight splitting of the cane down its length is rather a hit and miss business but you may already have acquired the knack of doing this accurately.
Covering should be of good quality Jap tissue. As the wings do not have separate spars, the covering should be applied dry with as few wrinkles as possible. Use a mixture of 15% banana oil, 15% clear dope, and 70% thinners to seal the surfaces. Too much shrinking dope will give elliptical dihedral. Rigid bracing with thread will also help to overcome this. A Tin. Peck plastic propeller cut down to about 51/2ins. would be a reasonable alternative to the wooden prop. The broad blades can be twisted to give extra pitch if required but performance will also depend upon the weight of the finished model.
Blue Styrofoam is used for loft insulation and should be available from any good builders merchant. Obtaining small quantities may be a problem but one could always share a sheet with others, build a few decent model boxes, or insulate the loft as a last resort..."
Update 13/04/2018: added article from Aeromodeller April 1983, thanks to RFJ.
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