Half Copland Wakefield (oz2159)

About this Plan

Copland Wake. Half-size Wakefield model.

This is a later, half-size version of the original Robert Copland designed 1936 Copland Wakefield (oz8955) model.

Quote: "1/2 Scale Copland Wakefield. Designed by Mike Hollamby, from a plan by R Mikkelson. Drawn by John White"

Scan from DBHL, cleanup by theshadow.

ref DBHL-5371

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Update 7/3/2023: Added article, thanks to Algy2.

Quote: "Half Sized Copland Wakefield. Build Mike Hollamby's super model and be ready for the next International Model Show at Olympia.

Half-sized Wakefields are now my favourite model. Any Wake when scaled down acquires a charm and grace that might not have been in the full-size version. Economical on materials, they fly beautifully, whether in the comfort of your local sports hall or outdoors on a calm summer evening.

Fuselage: Longerons, front spacers, and u/c spacers can be medium to hard wood, everything else must be light. Sheet the front bay with 1/16 medium and also glue in sheet supports for the rear motor peg if used. (Not shown on plan but should be in bay in front of tailplane - purists can use hook shown.) Sand the sides lightly then erect into a true and square fuselage by your favourite method. Glue in remaining spacers, u/c tubes, gussets etc and leave to dry.

Wings: The original full-size plan shows wingtips bent from 1/16 square bamboo. Good luck if you do it that way. The rest of us will laminate from balsa. Cut a template from balsa or thick card to the inner line of the tip, wax it (to stop the tip sticking to it) and cut 2 off 1/16 x 1/32 strips long enough to go round the former with a bit to spare. Glue the two strips together using slightly thinned white glue. Wait a couple of minutes for the glue to soak in then wrap round the former (which has been pinned to your board) and secure with small scraps of balsa pinned around the lamination. Leave overnight to dry and you will have an ideal wingtip, light and strong wasn't too difficult was it? The rest of the wing is straightforward, just keep it light and straight.

Tailplane & Fin: The eagle eyed will have noticed that the fin isn't tall enough. This mistake copied from Mik Mikkleson's original plan is not a bad thing in my experience. It makes the model easier to trim. Other than that, construction is similar to the wing and the same warnings about warps and weight apply.

Prop & Undercarriage: You can use a plastic prop if you must, otherwise carve one from the blank shown. Laminate a noseblock from 1/16 sheet, bush the prop, use a Peck nosebush and Peck propshaft with a couple of PTFE washers (all available from SAMS) to tie it all together. Use a freewheel mechanism if you wish. I didn't.

The undercarriage legs are wire and split bamboo bound together and cyano'd. Laminate the wheels and bush with alloy tubes. Now you are now ready for the following step.

Covering: Jap tissue (I get mine from Mike Woodhouse) is really the only thing to cover this little gem with. Apply using your favourite method. Steam shrink and pin down flying surfaces to prevent warps. Dope using one coat of 70% thinners and 30% dope or banana oil and pin down again. When all is finished assemble model and gloat over it for about a week!

Flying: Install a loop of 3/16 rubber twice the length of the motor hooks distance. Balance the model at about 50% mean chard (i.e. 50% chord, half way along each panel) and add weight if necessary. Test glide the model (adding 20-25 turns on the motor will help prolong glide) and when satisfied start powered flights on about 100 turns. Using about 1/32 down and side thrust should see the model climbing to the right and gliding down with a slightly wider right turn.

When you have it trimmed you can start trying different lengths of motor to get optimum performance or you can just fly it for enjoyment Either way this model is FUN."

Supplementary file notes

Article, thanks to Algy2.
Previous scan version.

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