Leapa Lena (oz2152)
About this Plan
Leapa-Lena. Free flight power model. For Wasp power.
Quote: "There is good reason for the appearance of the pylon on most winning designs, yet the sight of one will drive some model builders away from such a model. With Leapa Lena, we hide the pylon in the cabin and produce a model that is more on the realistic side. The cabin was built separately to help the final test flying; the wing can be shifted to obtain a good glide.
Twin rudders help when take-offs are made on rough ground. Flown with engines all the way down to .02, she was really leaping with an .049. The model was weighted with clay to bring it to 7-1/2 oz, and though the glide was fast the climb was sensational.
The Wasp was used with the timer tank. Other engines can utilize an eye dropper for the tank and visual timing employed.
The all-balsa fuselage offers a great deal of strength; with the fuselage set on edge, it can be made smaller and yet fit the engine mounting holes.
The sides are cut from sheet and two L's are made up. To one of these cement the bulkheads; when dry, cement the other L over the bulkheads, forming the complete fuselage. Make up the firewall and the gear and cement in place. Be sure to cement well. Cement bandage around the nose. Add the stabilizer platform and dethermalizer hook.
Cut the cabin bulkheads, tack-cement the lower ones in place, then build up the cabin. Remove the cabin and sheet its sides. The cabin 'window' is not cut out, but is indicated with Trim-Film. To trim the lower edges fold a sheet of sandpaper down over the top of the fuselage. Hold it down tight and then take the cabin and slide it back and forth over the paper. The cabin will trim itself to a perfect fit, The top is then trimmed. Add the wing hook to the front of the cabin; cut a hole at the rear - this area should be well cemented.
Wing and stabilizer are made in the usual manner; cut out the required ribs and tip outlines. Assemble the three panels over the plan; when dry, these are removed and sheeted separately. Upon drying, edges are trimmed and cemented together with dihedral. Add cap strips to ribs; these extend over the trailing edge and are trimmed with sandpaper. The stabilizer is next, then the rudders are cut and cemented in place. Add the top dethermalizer hook, see that it is directly above the hook on the fuselage.
The model was covered with tissue and doped well to preserve the structure against the hot fuel. We used butyrate dope and sanded between coats. The trimming was done with Trim-Film.
Test flying is done before the cabin is cemented in position; hold the wing and cabin in place temporarily with rubber bands. After the model turns in consistent flights, cement the cabin in proper position.
To obtain consistent flights: Glide the model until a straight glide with a slight 'mush' is observed. Fire up and when the engine has about five seconds left, launch the model. Do not throw it, as the model will assume its proper speed and will show its true flight characteristics. The model should be launched at 40 degrees. If it turns tightly to the right and the glide circle is large, tilt the stabilizer (looking from the rear) so the right tip is lower than the left..."
Update 17/02/2019: Added article, thanks to RFJ.
Supplementary file notes
Did we get something wrong with these details about this plan (especially the datafile)?
That happens sometimes. You can help us fix it.
Add a correction
Do you have a photo you'd like to submit for this page? Then email email@example.com
User commentsNo comments yet for this plan. Got something to say about this one?
Add a comment
* Credit field
The Credit field in the Outerzone database is designed to recognise and credit the hard work done in scanning and digitally cleaning these vintage and old timer model aircraft plans to get them into a usable format. Currently, it is also used to credit people simply for uploading the plan to a forum on the internet. Which is not quite the same thing. This will change soon. Probably.
This model plan (like all plans on Outerzone) is supposedly scaled correctly and supposedly will print out nicely at the right size. But that doesn't always happen. If you are about to start building a model plane using this free plan, you are strongly advised to check the scaling very, very carefully before cutting any balsa wood.
© Outerzone, 2011-2019.
All content is free to download for personal use.
For non-personal use and/or publication: plans, photos, excerpts, links etc may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Outerzone with appropriate and specific direction to the original content i.e. a direct hyperlink back to the Outerzone source page.
Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site's owner is strictly prohibited. If we discover that content is being stolen, we will consider filing a formal DMCA notice.