Jezebel, by Capt. Henry M. Bourgeois aka Hank Bourgeois. Control line team racer model, with swept wing and scimitar prop. Dooling 29 shown.
Quote: "Team racer design is in a rut with all racers basically the same; only different-shaped wing and tail design allow distinction between models. Our new model had to be ultra modern, featuring light, strong construction and incorporating the fine points found desirable after years of competition racing. Your author, long a full-scale fighter pilot whose heart rides with the swept-wing jets, decided the new ship would have to be along those lines. Jezebel was born one bright morning when two rocketing F-86 Sabres screamed by in a vertical climb and left me sitting cold at 10,000 feet in an old-fashioned prop-driven fighter. Here was a natural design to base the team racer on, and flying has proven the performance of the model to be as superior to ordinary racers as the F-86 is to prop fighters.
Construction is conventional throughout. The wing should be completed first so that it can be installed intact on the fuselage. Butt-join two pieces of 3in wide 1/16in sheet balsa stock for the wing bottom and cut to the outline of the wing planform. Pin to flat surface and install the hardwood spars, false leading edge, and wing ribs. The entire control system and landing gear is installed before cementing the1/16in sheet balsa top in place. The landing gear should be bound to the hardwood spars with thread and several coats of cement applied. Bevel the trailing edge of the sheet balsa bottom before cementing the top covering in place. Cut out the center section of the top sheet in order to reach the bellcrank assembly. Cement the leading edge and block wing tips in place and sand the wing to airfoil shape.
The fuselage sides are made from 1/8 medium-hard balsa. Using the airfoil template cut slots for the wing. The hardwood motor mounts are cemented to the fuselage sides, and when thoroughly dry the sides are assembled with the fuselage formers. Rough-cut to shape the top and bottom blocks. The wing is now installed on the fuselage.
The horizontal stabilizer is made from medium-hard 1/8 sheet balsa. To simplify construction and assembly, a movable control surface is used on only one side. This single control surface proved more than adequate for positive control at all speeds. In fact, the slight dihedral of the ele-vators tends to give a little out rud-der on 'up' control and helps hold the model out on the lines.
Cement the elevator hinges to both the stabilizer and the elevator with several coats. Install the pushrod linkage and check for smoothness before finally cementing the stabilizer to the fuselage. The elevator should have equal up and down movement of about a half inch. Before adding the bottom block install the tailskid with its loop for engag-ing the starting stooge. Use heavy wire here, preferably 3/32 music wire. Bending can be simplified by removing the temper beforehand. Simply heat the wire to a dull red color in a gas jet and cool slowly by gradually removing from the flame. After bending, to retemper, heat again to a dull red and plunge into cold water.
Mount the engine and then the gas tank. To increase fuel economy without sacrificing too much power, a Torpedo .29 needle-vale assembly was installed in place of the stock Dooling .29 carburetor. The fuel shut-off is a stock K&B Fuel Shutoff soldered to the needle-valve body. A short piece of rubber hose connects the tank and carburetor. The pushrod that trips the shut-off is soldered directly to the control pushrod and runs through a small brass tubing guide to the shut-off trip. The linkage should be adjusted to trip the shut-off on full down control.
The 1/16 plywood rudder is next cemented to the fuselage. Before installing the top block, it's a good idea to paint the inside of the fuse-lage around the tank and wing root with Weldwood or a similar glue to add strength and fuel proof the wood on inside. Such touches pay.
Cut out the cockpit opening, install instrument panel and other cockpit details as desired. Don't forget the pilot required by Team Racing Rules. A 'Hap the Hot Pilot' or 'Ace the Race Pilot,' miniature plastic pilots, painted in detail, available in most hobby shops, are scaled 1 in to 1 ft, just about right for this ship. The canopy is a plastic 5 in bubble. Be sure and paint the inside of the cockpit before the top block is finally cemented to the fuselage.
The cowling is assembled from block balsa as shown in the drawing. Fill in the inside corners with scrap blocks for a close baffle around the engine cylinder. Lightly cement the cowl to the fuselage and sand the fuselage to shape. Next remove the cowl and cut the openings for the exhaust port and cooling air intake. A neat exhaust deflector can be made..."
Update 14/01/2018: Added article, thanks to DPlumpe.
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