Art Chesters Jeep (oz2048)

About this Plan

Jeep (Art Chester Racer). Scale model for control line.

Quote "An exceptional project, famous Chester 'Jeep' racer makes fine U/C flying scale or team racing entry; the pants are removable. Art Chester Racer, by Aubrey 'Red' Kochman.

One of the most popular racing planes to catch the fancy of the model builders is the Jeep. This trim little ship was built back in 1935 and powered by a 375 cu. in. displacement Menasco engine. In its first major test during the 1936 National Air Races at Los Angeles it took second place in the Greve Trophy race with a speed of 230.47 mph.

For team racing it is suggested that the wheels be increased in size to 2 in for better take-off and landing characteristics. The plans show the installation of an O&R .19, .23, .29, or .33. Any of these engines will give excellent performance, but the .29 or any other engine of the same displacement is required under the team racing rules.

Due to the rather odd shape, it is necessary that the wing be constructed first. A 'D' section type was chosen for its great strength and light weight. Cut out all ribs, leading edge, trailing edge and main spar. Mark rib locations on both sides of spar and construct the D section first, including the 1/20 sheet covering on both top and bottom. Cement rear portion of ribs to spar on the marks previously drawn. Add trailing edge, the sheet covering at center section and the tips, making sure to hollow out inboard tip as shown. Sand out any irregularities, especially where sheet covering joins leading edge.

With the wing finished except for covering, we can turn to the fuselage. Cut sides from fairly soft 3/16 sheet and the bottom from 1/4 insheet of the same grade wood. Also cut out the two formers, the 1/4 in plywood firewall and the 1/8 sheet nose crutch. Because of simplicity of construction, all fuselage parts should be cut out very accurately to insure strength and true alignment. Do not depend upon cement to fill the spaces between parts that do not fit properly.

Cut out slot for the wing before beginning assembly. Because of its odd shape, the wing cannot be slipped through the slot. Therefore remove top portion of slot using a fine backsaw or razor blade. This piece will be cemented back after wing is in place. Also cut holes for lead-out wires and slot for the stabilizer. Notice that the sides are parallel at the wing root section back to former F-2.

Mark off this section and cut off the nose section. Score and crack the sides just enough at F-2 so that they may be cemented together at tail. Cement F-2 and nose crutch in place as shown. Cement the plywood side doublers to crutch. Use Weldwood glue and fine brads or wood screws to join firewall to the side doublers. Secure bellcrank to mount, install lead-out wires and pushrod and cement the unit in place.

Cut a small hole in the bottom sheeting of wing center section as indicated on wing plan to clear the bellcrank mounting bolt, and cement wing in place. Replace the side pieces above wing, trimming if necessary to insure a flush top line. Cement nose side pieces to the plywood side doublers. Add bottom sheet except for the piece that fits across at landing..."

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Update 04/06/2019: Added article, thanks to RFJ.

Supplementary file notes

Article.

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