Pfalz DIII (oz1791)

About this Plan

Pfalz D3. Scale free flight plan WWI fighter biplane. Designed by F Palmer it was developed for pendulum control with full safety features including sprung landing gear, knock off wings. Fully planked fuselage, spruce, balsa and silk construction. Scale is 1/8. December 1960 Aeromodeller.

Quote: "A superb one-eighth scale free-flight model of the WWI fighter. Pfalz DIII, by F Palmer.

THIS 1/8 SCALE Pfalz DIII has been developed as a pendulum controlled model with full safety features including sprung landing gear, knock-off wings, fully planked fuselage, spruce, balsa and silk construction. Sleek lines, curvaceous fuselage, flat upper plane, and colourful appearance, make it a worthy addition to any modeller's collection. It matches the Nieuport 17 (APS FSP-285), Sopwith Pup (oz985), Spad S-7c1 (APS FSP/373), Sopwith Camel (oz873), Fokker DR1 (oz2011), Sopwith Swallow (oz1960), Albatros DV (oz1662) already in our popular range of WWI types for free flight to the same 1 in represents 1 ft scale.

The Pfalz is extremely stable, robust, and a delight to fly. Craftsmanship, the use of Bondfast PVA and Pliobond and nylon for binding fittings etc, help in no small way to provide these qualities. Take time in construction and complete each operation carefully. The results are well worth it.

Construct the upper wings in the normal mannier, being careful to build in 3 degrees washout in each tip. Carve soft balsa centre section trailing edge block to shape, and cover the remainder of centre section top and bottom with 1/16 in sheet balsa. Securely bind all hooks and fittings. Cover, dope and add details.

Take care over the installation of the lower wing boxes. These should be a secure slip fit over the tongues. Add hooks and fittings, and finish in the same manner as the upper wing. Fuselage construction begins by sewing the wire hook to CS3, joining CS2 and CS3 to CS1, and leaving to dry overnight. Assemble fuselage sides with formers and crosspieces to form basic frame.

Add sternpost and stern rudder tube. Install motor mounts and dowel u/c stop. Sew cabare struts to frame, but DO NOT FAIR WITH PLYWOOD YET. Next fit the u/c, and brass tube to take flying wire band. Install pendulum and actuating rod to swing freely, add all remaining formers, ply motor wails and fuselage facing strips. Cover with 3/32 in sheet balsa moulded to shape by softening with dope. Add soft block in front of former F2 and sand to shape. Sew or Araldite metal motor facing to nose block, add dowel keys and replace in position. Complete tailskid assembly and upper tail block, cover inside of dummy motor with tir foil, Pliobond to wood and varnish well. Complete engine installation with metal flanges fitted to engine.

Build the tailplane in the normal manner, sheeting the centre section and cutting the openings for the pendulum arm and stern post. Sew and bind all hooks (again, with nylon), cover with silk and clear dope to shrink.

Pay particular attention to strength when building the fin and rudder. Bind all tubes and hinges, and ensure the rudder moves freely when marrying the two assembly components. Cover with silk and dope. Fit the whole to the top stern block, ensuring that the fin adjusting bolt is correctly located, and functions satisfactorily.

Rig the model as in the plan sketch with nylon fish line, using dress hooks for fixing and rubber bands for tension.

Balance to position shown on the plan ard, glide test to obtain nose down glide trim, with slight left turn. Flight pattern is left hand turn on both power and glide, being superbly realistic. "

Update 22/12/2016: Added article, thanks to RFJ.

Supplementary file notes

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