Profile Speedster (oz16923)

About this Plan

Profile Speedster. Simnple profile rubber model.

Quote: "Profile Speedster, by Louis Garami.

Come on, fans! Build this buzzing balsa baby - and chalk up a slew of fast flights on your model traffic schedule. You'll find this snappy, profile-type ship a real tip-top sky scooter. Simply-constructed, she's a prize job for beginners - but beginner or veteran, you won't want to pass up this super-plus craft.

Our Profile Speedster model is an improvement on the simple stick model - a step up toward the more complicated fuselage models, But though its side view is more airplane-like and its rubber motor is half concealed in its body, the construction hardly takes any longer than the easiest of stick models.

This profile job is simplified further by its use of an all-balsa wing, a type of airfoil which can easily be assembled by even the youngest builders. The wire landing gear and wing-adjustment features will help you to make trial flights without serious crack ups.

Body and Tail Surfaces: Use 1/8 medium balsa for the body. Trace the outline and cut it out with a sharp razor blade. Next cut out the inside motor section and sandpaper the whole thing lightly. The rear hook is bent of .028 music wire and fastened in place with cement. The tail skid is then put on in similar manner.

Now make a hole for the prop bearing with a large size pin, slanting the hole down in the same way as shown on Plan 1. Insert the 1/16 OD aluminum tubing, then cement a large washer in front, The landing gear is now bent out of .028 wire and glued on the bottom of the motor stick. The two 1 inch hardwood wheels can be put on after the glue has dried.

The propeller is carved out of a medium grade balsa block measuring 6 by 11/16 by 3/4 in. A good prop is very important. Carve it slowly and carefully using a sharp knife and smoothing with a sandpaper block. The blades should taper in thickness from 1/8 at the hub to 1/16 at the tips, with a slight camber on the inside. There is an eyelet and large washer on the hub to protect it from wearing out. The prop shaft is then bent and inserted through aluminum tubing and the prop is then glued.

Use soft 1/32 sheet balsa for rudder and elevator. Trace them from the plans and cut them out with a sharp razor blade. Now sandpaper both sides and edges smooth and cement the stabilizer on the body first. When the cement has set, you can attach the rudder in its place, lining it up straight with the aid of a couple of pins.

Wings: The wings are cut out of 1/32 medium balsa, according to the pattern shown in Plan 2. Utmost care must be taken in cutting the slight curve where the two wing sections join together. The assembly of the wings is as follows:

Pin one rib at each side of the body, as indicated in the drawing, and line them up from the top and sides. Now spread cement over the top of the ribs without spilling any on the body. Next pin the wings on to the ribs so that they are joined at the middle and so that the wing tips are raised to the proper dihedral. Naturally the wing sections must be cemented at the joining point also..."

Direct submission to Outerzone.

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