Pipit ROG (oz16867)

About this Plan

Pipit ROG. Simple rubber sport model. Wingspan 12 in.

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Quote: "From the July-August 1990 issue of Airborne, from the magazine found on the HPA plans website [see https://hpa.aeromodelling.gr/plans...] Wingspan 12 in."
PB_guy"

Quote: "Pipit. The simple ROG has survived the evolution of aeromodelling. As RTFs and kits they are still great sellers, and pennywise, no other form of flying yields the fun that an ROG does (especially so if a touch of care and sophistication goes into it). The inherent weakness of the ROG is the stick fuselage which tends to bow and twist when the motor is fully wound. With this in mind, the Pipit was designed around a light, strong, tissue-covered fin-fuselage unit to overcome that problem.

Although most Pipits will be flown outdoors, the nose was kept short to give good turning characteristics sought by indoor adherents. Choice of propeller greatly influences nose weight. A Japanese 4-3/4 inch diameter prop placed the balance point exactly where required, and the prototype flew without any trimming whatever.

For the outlay of two hours and some balsa scraps, this model will, if you stick to the cardinal rules 'KEEP IT LIGHT' and 'KEEP THE TAIL LIGHT', prove to be the best of the genre. Select firm, light stock (strip it if required) and get started!

Fuselage: Prick out the corners of the nose-wing carrier onto the sheet balsa and cut out with a sharp bladed knife and steel rule, Check for accuracy by placing on plan. If satisfied, pin this down, add the strip members and nose hanger, and glue up the structure. When dry, turn the fuselage over and glue the plan side just in case the cyano did not reach.

Wing: This is best built in one piece. Pin down the left panel with enough leading edge protruding to accommodate the right wing. When built, simply shift the completed panel left, and add the right one. Remember the wash-out!

Stabiliser: This is sanded-doped light 0.8 mm (1/32 inch) sheet. First sand down the sheet using 400 grit until translucent when held to the light. Next brush on two coats of very runny clear dope with plasticiser and allow to dry. Lightly sand using 600 grit, and cut out the stab. With the 600 grit, smooth the corners and edges.

The heart and soul of modelling is SANDING, so give it your all. For lightness, using a sanding block, taper the fin away from the motor stick as shown on the plan (this is vital to shave off rear end weight), and radius the edges. Next the wing, still in one piece, is sanded, using the block. Small models like sharp leading edges, so spend time and BE CAREFUL, as uncovered structures are fragile. Similarly, taper the trailing edge and rear end of ribs. Wing section is not critical, but aim for something like that on the plan, and make sure that both panels are the same..."

Supplementary file notes

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