Stahlwerk (oz16866)

About this Plan

Stahlwerk. Radio control scale model for electric power. Parasol layout. Wingspan 18 in, for Vapor brick or similar.

Vector format plan. Posted on RCGroups by Peter Rake himself, in 2013.

Quote: "Personally, I blame Walt Mooney for my love-affair with the Stahlwerk parasol monoplane. More years ago than I care to remember I was foolish enough to buy one of the 'Bag of Peanuts' plan packs, that included the plan for a 15 inch Stahlwerk (oz2408).

I realise that 15" span is too big to truly qualify as a 'Peanut' model, but the plan was there and I had no desire to compete, so I built it. Despite my somewhat ham-fisted attempts to make a complete mess of it, and precious little idea of the ideal power set-up, this rather pretty little model regularly turned in 30 second flights over our local cricket field. Bearing in mind that said field is surrounded by tall trees, 30 seconds was ample.

Anyway, thus encouraged I drew up and built a 45" model for electric powered R/C flight. That also flew well, and turned in considerably longer flight times. 30" and 36" span models followed over the ensuing years, and then I got interested in 'micro' models - micro-ish at any rate. Since the original plan had long since disappeared, and I had a 30" version on CAD anyway, I decided it was about time for an 18" model to fit around a Vapor brick.

This is where things got a little complicated. The plan was drawn up, and parts cut, some time ago, before I'd 'refined' the way I go about these models (the refining continues with each one I draw). This wasn't helped any by the fact that it showed a motor unit that was supposed to become available, but didn't. A former for a Vapor motor was also included but, as I've since learnt, these don't actually develop enough power to fight their way out of a wet paper bag, never mind fly a model weighing around 35 grams. Time for some serious re-thinking.

Usually I like to get a model completely sorted out on paper before I start attacking balsa. This time however, faced with a lovingly laser cut set of parts, I was obviously going to have to play certain areas of the build by ear, as things progressed.

Right then, that's how we got to where we are now. I say we because I'm assuming I won't be the only one along for the ride. Hoping I won't anyway. These threads get awfully boring when I'm the only one adding anything. If you think they're boring anyway, please be kind to my poor, bruised ego and don't actually say so too loudly. However, if you feel I'm going into too much detail, feel free to say so. I can't guarantee I'll take any notice, but you're welcome to say so.

After a little more messing around in CAD it became obvious that with only a couple of knife cuts, and some repositioning, the original motor plate would still serve to mount a PZ 8.5mm unit. More power than I was planning on, but I know they are popular powerplants, and that's why throttle sticks move off the top stop. You can always reduce power if you have too much, but you can't get more from an inadequate motor (think Vapor unit).

Whilst playing with the drawing it also became clear that more battery space, and better access was required. With that in mind, F2 was modified so that a battery tray could be installed and the battery fit between the u/c legs, allowing more leeway for using it's weight to balance the finished model.

Anyhoo, after three evenings playing about with bits of balsa and the selection of glues Deluxe Materials were kind enough to send with the EzeDope samples, I now have all the basic frames assembled - two wing panels, two fuselage sides, a tailplane/elevator and a fin/rudder.
The two sides are neatly scored where they crack inwards at the nose, F2 has been butchered and fitted to one side, as has F3 without the butchery. Once I'm sure they're completely dry I'll join the sides, pull in the nose and fit F1. A couple of 1/16 square 'rails' were fitted to the inner nose, and the modified motor plate (now two halves of a motor plate) were glued to the rails. If I got it right, and glued them to the correct sides, once the nose if joined these plates should set up down and right thrust. If I got it wrong it will be left thrust and some more butchery will be required.

Rather than run on any longer I'll post the plan as it originally was. Then, not only will you have an idea what a Stahlwerk looks like, you'll also see that moving the motor plate down 3/16" allows the motor unit to fit correctly and that modifying F2 and adding a tray should allow the battery to be positioned anywhere between F1 and F3.

Pete"

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