Boomer (oz16854)

About this Plan

Boomer. Rubber sport model. All-sheet design. Twin-boom layout. Wingspan 13 in.

Quote: "The Boomer, by Gordon S Light.

Editor's Note: Gordon S Light, who designed this simple model, is one of the world's outstanding designers of rubber-powered models. In fact, he is the only person twice to win the renowned Wakefield International Trophy. Fortunately, he refuses to take his model building too seriously and the happy result is neat but simple fliers that are fun for beginner and expert alike.

WHEN you say beginner's model these days you'd better say it with a smile for you'll horrify the boys who fly the 100 mile an hour control-liners, the hot free-flight gassies, or the noisy jets. Most of us seem to have forgotten what fun you can have with an ROG or a hand-launched glider. Maybe it is because we call every simple model a beginner's model that no one wants to build them. There seems to be no such thing as a beginner these days. Or is there.

Now take the Boomer. If you build it, you'll find it will live up to its name. The way it takes off and zips, you'll find it aptly named, too. It won't take much time or trouble either. Just a razor blade to cut out the parts; a pliers to bend the shaft, hooks, and landing gear wires; some glue and a pointed stick are about all the things you'll need. Maybe a few pins, too. The Boomer falls together in an evening, certainly in two evenings at the outside, if you like to use the sandpaper. For this little trouble, you'll have plenty of fun watching the Boomer buzz around the ball lot.

There are two drawings. One is for full size parts and the other shows how this sheet-balsa P-38 fits together. The motor stick is just a piece of 1/8 x 1/4 in hard balsa. The rear rubber hook is bent to shape and glued in position as shown. The propeller thrust bearing is a scrap of 1/8 x 1/4 supported by a triangular gusset of the same material. Be sure to use some fixed bearing for the prop washer to revolve on; glue it in place for it doesn't take much wear and tear to work through the balsa. Here, incidentally, is one big reason why so many of these simple models don't fly well. They must have a decent thrust bearing and a drop of oil should be placed on the shaft between the bearing and the washer behind the prop. It is also a good idea to glue a small washer to the back of the prop hub. After you have bent the nose-wheel support to shape from .030 music wire, you can bind it in position with thread and then glue it.

There is no fuss to the wing. It's just a sheet of 1/16 balsa. Trace the pattern on the sheet and cut out with your razor blade. Lay the wing on the bench and crack it along the lines x-x and raise each tip 1-1/2 in. Put a temporary support under the wing and glue the cracked portions. The tail is even simpler. Note, though, that it is 1/32 sheet. The two booms are cut from 3/32 sheet balsa the same way as the wing and tail were cut out. But use soft wood, for the booms could add a hair too much weight. Now cement the wing on top of the two booms as shown, noting the addition of small slivers of balsa as incidence blocks. While you are at it, make an extra incidence block. Bend the landing-gear wires and bind and cement them to the booms. Cement the tail surfaces in place...

Direct submission to Outerzone.

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