Poppy (oz16838)

About this Plan

Poppy. Free flight sport model for CO2 or rubber power. Wingspan 20 in.

Quote: "Free flight CO2/rubber model. Poppy, by Mark Bees.

Poppy was designed following success with the Mistral powered CO2 Bumble Bee design. I like these motors and have 3, I think they are great fun and very good value for money and easy to operate. Poppy was to house the 3rd motor, my other two powering Bumble Bees - one being lost!

I was originally looking for a scale subject but as usual for me after thumbing through many books and not being able to make my mind up, I plumped for a scale look alike. (I always take the easy way out telling myself my next job will be a super scale Gladiator, ah! One day. Anyway it was off to the drawing board for me - what I was looking for was a model of a high wing monoplane configuration with plenty of glazing ie a Cessna or Auster type but being simple to build. Unfortunately I like making models but I'm impatient; I was once told as a youngster model making would teach me patience. 25 years on I'm still waiting to learn - anyway the thing is, if I can't build a model of this size in a few evenings I loose interest and start on a new project - my workshop is full of unfinished models!

Poppy is a simple model and no problems should be found in construction by anybody who has built a couple of similar models, the only tricky part is the glazing which is worth taking a little time over as this I feel is the charm of this model.

Fuselage: The fuselage is constructed of 1.5mm (1/16) sheet balsa with 0.8mm (1/32) cross sheeting top and bottom. Start by pinning the sheet size in place over the plan and gluing the 2.4mm sq (3/32 sq) cockpit outline in position, pinning to secure, add B & C formers and allow to dry. Remove from plan when completely dry and build the other side directly onto the plan as before. When dry marry up the first side to the second gluing when all square. When completely dry bring the rear of the fuselage together and glue, add 0.8mm sheeting top and bottom and add front formers as necessary (note; you will need to decide whether you are building the CO2 or the rubber powered version and add appropriate formers at this stage).

You will notice that the undercarriage is held in place by being a tight fit: this I have done as it makes storage easier for me. But it is simpler to sew and glue the undercarriage to former B. This you will find will make a stronger and more robust job. Another tip is not to fit all the cross sheeting at the front (20mm approx) until final motor adjustments (trimming stage) have been made..."

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