Georgyro (oz16830)

About this Plan

Georgyro. Free flight autogyro model, for rubber power.

Quote: "No excuse not to build this one! Full-size plans make it easy for you to produce this truly unique freeflight. Georgyro, by Bill Hannan.

Caution: model autogyros may be dangerous to your tranquinity! At first glance, this model may look to be a beginner's project. And, in a way, it is. Construction is fairly simple, but care must be exercised to make the parts accurately, assemble them correctly, and follow the flying instructions, because there is more to this 'flying windmill' than meets the casual eye.

Although autogyros bear resemblances to both airplanes and helicopters, they are neither, and require extra understanding (and patience?) if they are to be successful. What do I mean by successful? Well, I feel that a 12 or 15 second stable flight by an autogyro model to be about as satisfying as a 30 second flight with a conventional type, If 12 seconds does not seem very long to you, perhaps we should recall that the Wright brothers were delighted with that duration on December 17, 1903.

Georgyro has exceeded 23 seconds on some occasions, but I feel amply rewarded if it turns in flights of about 20 seconds regularly. That word 'regularly' is an important one. Some model gyros are inconsistent - one flight may be encouraging, while the next may be a total disaster. So our chief aim in developing this particular model has been consistency, rather than spectacular performance. Perhaps if you have success with yours, you may be inspired to produce a better performer,

Background: This is a modified version of a design by Georges Chaulet, of France. Georges has specialized in rotorcraft models for many years, and has willingly exchanged ideas with modelers in various parts of the world, His version of this model, called the MRA (MonoRotor Autogyre) is larger, and has been featured in both French and Italian magazines. Our model is named in his honor, and called GG for short.

Construction: It is suggested that you make a photocopy of the full-size plans, in order to preserve your Flying Models magazine. Pin or tape the plans to a soft building-board, which will accept pins easily. By covering the plans with transparent kitchen wrap, they will be protected from glue.

Fuselage: Construct the fuselage upside down. Select a flat sheet of 1/20 inch sheet balsa for the top deck, cut it to shape, then drill the small pylon locating holes. The larger hole in the rear is optional, but useful for observing the rubber motor position when changing or replacing it. Pin the top deck over the drawing, and construct the triangular bulkheads from 1/20 sheet and strips as indicated. When dry, these are glued in position atop the deck, using the dashed lines on each side of the top deck drawing for location guides. Note that front bulkheads 1 and 1A are slanted slightly rearward to provide a three degree downthrust angle. The tailpost is simply a straight strip with a notched end. Install the 1/16 square longeron on edge, and allow it to dry thoroughly

Remove the fuselage from the building board, then cut and install the 1/20 inch sheet forward fuselage fill-in members. Also cut and install the tail peg mounts, which retain bamboo motor peg.

Nose block: Cut the nose block and its triangular plug to size from 1/16 sheet, balsa, and sand to shape. It should be a snug fit inside the fuselage nose, so t that. it will not, fall out in flight, yet may be removed for stretch-winding of the motor. A Peck-Polymers nylon propeller shaft bearing is installed, and the shaft, bent to shape from 1/32 music wire.

Rotor pylon. The pylon/cabin is constructed from hard 1/20 inch square strip stock and sheet formers. The pylon retaining peg may be made of hardwood or bamboo. 1/32 diameter music wire is bent to shape for the rotor axle, and securely cemented in position. Its mounting angle is important and should be double-checked to be certain of accuracy..."

Direct submission to Outerzone.

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