Typical Taube (oz16821)

About this Plan

Typical Taube. Simple profile scale model for rubber power. Wingspan 18 in.

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Update 19/6/2026: Added article, thanks to anon.

Quote: "Tauben (plural of Taube) were not a specific 'brand' of aircraft, but rather, a type, which were manufactured by many firms, including Rumpler, Albatrus, DFW, Roland, Kondor, Gotha, Jathro, Harlan, Halberstadt, and several others. All of them, however, were descendants of the original Taube, which was designed back in 1910 by an Austrian, Igo Etrich.

The word taube is German for pigeon, or dove, depending upon which translation you prefer, and it is certainly no mystery why the airplane got the name. Among the most stable machines of the era, these birds are a natural for a free-flight flying scale subject. Alas, to duplicate all of the rigging, bracing, and other paraphernalia found on a real Taube, would require an entire season of model-building time. So, in an effort to capture some of the fine character of the breed, and yet minimize the effort involved, we came up with this rather abstract version, the TYPICAL TAUBE.

The plans should be studied carefully, then read these instructions. Rule number one: KEEP IT LIGHT

WINGS: Select some medium soft 1/32 sheet stock for the main wing panels. The wing tips are very soft 1/32 sheet. If you must use medium weight balsa for these parts, it would be better to run the grain parallel with the trailing edge of the main wing panels. In either case, it is better to glue the tip sections to the main wing sections before cutting the scallops. Next, glue the 1/16 square leading edges onto the wing panels, and apply weights on them while they are drying, to prevent any warping caused by the action of the glue.

Note that wing ribs W-2 and W-3 are cut to length and top curvature only. The lower curvature is not cut until each wing panel is complete.

After the leading edges are dry, the wing ribs may be added. If a bit of glue is rubbed into the top surface of each rib it will strengthen the joints, and make assembly easier. The wing panels are carefully glued to the ribs (or vice versa, if you prefer), remembering that W-1 must be installed at a slight angle (as viewed from the front) in order to achieve the dihedral. My wings were assembled 'in the air', and hand-held until they were dry, but it is also possible to pin the various parts to the building board while they are drying, which will spare you the agony of being a human vice.

After everything has completely dried, carefully trim and sand the undersides of W-2 and W-3 to shape, being cautious not to remove too much wood, which might weaken the wings.

The small holes indicated by the marks near the R's on the wing drawing should be carefully made with a fine needle. Be certain to apply a spot of glue top and bottom of each opening where the rigging will pass through. For extra strength, tiny cloth patches may be cemented over each spot. The object is, to prevent the rigging from making like a cheese-slicer during hard landings!

FUSELAGE: Select a light but stiff piece of 3/16 sheet balsa from which to make the fuselage. The stiffness is needed to prevent the body from bowing under the pressure of a fully wound rubber motor. Shape fuselage to the general cross-section shown on plans, but the area directly between landing gear wire should be left rectangular, to present the maximum gluing area.

DUMMY ENGINE: The dummy engine serves as the prop shaft bearing, and is built up from scrap as shown. Here is an opportunity for you to be creative, as the various makes of Taubes were powered by different engines including both 'fours' and 'sixes' some of which featured exotic intake and exhaust systems..."

Note this plans and article appeared reprinted in HAFFA Newsletter, Aug 2019. See their site at: https://kcfreeflight.org/

Supplementary file notes

Article.

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