Ju-87 Stuka (oz16815)

About this Plan

Ju-87 Stuka. Radio control scale model German WWII dive bomber. Wingspan 30 in, for electric power with 24G 1700KV brushless motor.

Note this plan is a free download available from the Model Aviation site at https://www.modelaviation.com/content/ju-87-stuka where it appears along with the full build text and some great build pics. Also free downloads of printed tissue files to complete the model.

See also: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?4323335-Park-Flyer-Fun-Scale-Models-Ju-87D-Stuka-at-30

Quote: "The Ju-87 Stuka dive bomber is one of the most recognizable aircraft from the Second World War. Known for its precision bombing and sirens mounted to its wheel pants, the Stuka’s presence was most publicized during the early years of the war. From 1939 to mid-1941, the B series saw action in nearly all of the campaigns that the Luftwaffe was engaged in, with its Jericho trumpet sirens screaming as the aircraft was in its 70° dive. The psychological impact to those on the ground was terrifying; however, it also literally sounded the alarm that Stukas were in the area and provided antiaircraft gunners warning that an attack was imminent. These sirens also could not be stopped in level flight, so they could be heard by the pilots when cruising at higher speeds, much to their discomfort.

While initially successful, if they were not accompanied by Me 109 or Me 110 escorts, they were often easy prey for Allied fighters. Their shortcomings became glaring during the Battle of Britain, sustaining a 20% loss rate during one week of combat. After mostly pulling them from the battle, they soldiered on with the newer D series, seeing significant action over Russia. This updated version moved the radiators to under the wing (similar to an Me 109), streamlined the canopy, and had the sirens removed. Even with the multiple improvements, the top airspeed only increased roughly 15 mph, amounting to a top speed of 255 mph.

The G was the last major series of the Stuka, focused as an anti-tank ground-attack variant. Although considered outdated early in the war, the Stuka continued to see service until the conclusion in 1945. While slow and often an easy target, it could still be an effective weapon. Hans-Ulrich Rudel was the 'ace' among Stuka pilots, claiming more than 500 tanks, a destroyer, a battleship, and several air-to-air victories flying Ju-87s on the Eastern Front.

The Stuka is the sixth model in the park flyer series. It has a wingspan of 30 inches and is the D version to match those of the movie. Construction is mostly 3/32-inch balsa and 1/8-inch light plywood, with some 1/16- and 1/4-inch balsa used. The plans, parts, construction notes, cockpit, and tissue templates (four livery options) can be downloaded from ModelAviation.com; however, if you’re not wanting to hand-cut parts, you can get a short kit from Manzano Laser Works.

Power comes from a 24-gram motor spinning an 8 x 4.5 three-blade propeller. Rabid Models offers both a 3D-printed spinner and wheels designed specifically for the model. The company also offers a power package that includes the motor, spinner, propeller, and some accessories. Both Manzano and Rabid are listed in "Sources."

As with the other models in this series, the canopy is made from flat, clear sheet and is folded to shape. After you have your short kit or your parts cut, it’s time to 'flood the cowling' and get on with the build.

Start construction with the tail surfaces. The vertical rudder and horizontal elevators are made from 3/32-inch sheet balsa. There are several cutouts for 3/32-inch square stringers to run across the grain, which help prevent warping. Just be sure to keep the bottom cutout on the vertical open, because it is where the horizontal is located.

Moving on to the fuselage, pin all of the keel parts over the plans along with V1 and V2. The upper keel parts are connected to the lower keel with 3/32-inch square stringers at the former locations. This provides a better surface for the former halves to adhere to and eliminates the need to notch each former for 'half' of the keel. When you're satisfied, glue the keels, stringers, and V parts. With a sanding block, lightly sand the top of the keel assembly to level out any differences in balsa thickness. Glue the sub-formers to F4 and F7. Starting with F10, add the left former halves to the keel and vertical stringers. Use the center stringer on the plans for alignment (#5, per the plans details). Keep moving forward with the formers. Note that while at an angle, F4 is still 90° to the board. Add the center stringer from F2 all the way to butt against the stringer on K4..."

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