Mis-Chief (oz16804)

About this Plan

Mis-Chief. Rubber duration model. Coupe d'Hiver class. Wingspan 36 in.

Quote: "The Coupe d'Hliver rubber-powered model originated in Europe over a generation ago. Limited in size and power, it has maintained its identity and popularity, can be flown for enjoyment or competition. This one is published for very special reasons. The design is noteworthy for it's functional, gadgetless approach. The text gives rare insight into the designer's logical mind. With short wordage, he shows clearly the art of building for a purpose, the simplicity of flight adjustments, and the techniques of handling rubber. For the halfway rubber modeler, the article and plans are right on. For the rest of us, Pattern fliers and all, it is a mind-expanding exposition of one of the many phases of our hobby. Within the confines of our presentation, the article probably is a classic of its kind.

A lot of people have started in this hobby with simple rubber-powered models. Once the bug has bitten them, they go on to the large, expensive, oily, engine-powered machines and never really learn how much fun a real performance-oriented, rubber-powered airplane can be.

Rubber models require no more equipment than a hand drill converted to a winder, and someone to hold it while the motor is wound, to give hours of fun. Rubber models start every time, which assures a lot of flying in an afternoon.

Mis Chief was designed to compete in the increasingly popular Coupe d'Hiver event at contests. This event requires only that the model weigh 100 grams with a motor weighing not more than ten grams installed, and a minimum cross section of the fuselage at the thickest point of 3-1/10 sq inches. With no wing area restrictions, a surprisingly wide variation of designs has been flown successfully. You can add rubber for fun flying.

Mis Chief is of a fairly small overall size, with straight lines for easy building and maintenance. The flat-bottomed airfoil makes building easy, with resistance to warps both in construction and later; and a stronger wing results from wider spacing spars. The 1/16 square turbulator spars break up the airflow over the top of the wing for better stall characteristics, and add warp resistance and overall strength.

Mis Chief appears unsophisticated and plain compared to some of the 'coupes' with their auto-rudders, torque-controlled pitch-change props, and so forth. Contests are not won on looks or gadgetry, though. The main requirement is an airplane that can be flown without a lot of tinkering between flights, that will stay in trim all day without surprises, and stand dethermalized landings without suffering damage. Mis Chief has sustained no more than minor tears in the covering in the year since it was built. It has competed in over 15 contests and the trophy collection it has amassed testifies to the fact that this simple 'Plain Jane' of an airplane is a serious threat at any contest.

Mis Chief is a fairly easy model to build. Please don't attempt to start it, though, until a couple of the very good 'beginners' (I hate that word!) models have been built. A lot of problems always crop up when building, so it's better to have that experience before starting a 'scratch,' or non-kit airplane, to ensure the completion of the building project.

Coupes are generally built fairly heavily, since they must weigh 100 grams with the ten-gram motor installed, and, as a result, they will last a long time So build carefully, and whether it's flown in contests, or around the ballfield, Mis Chief will reward its builder with a long happy life.

Construction: It's straightforward. The author likes to start with the wing, then the stab, and finally (the fun part), the fuselage. Cut out a bunch of wing rib blanks, enough to insure that at least ten more ribs than are necessary will result. Pin them all together and carve and sand them to shape, leaving the cuts for the leading and trailing edges slightly larger than required. Cut the slot for the main spar, but don't cut out the slots for the small turbulator spars until after the wing is framed up.

Build two wing halves with the inboard ribs inclined slightly at the tops, then sand them completely before joining them at the proper dihedral angle. Lay the frame aside, along with the spare wing ribs. Why the spares? They come in handy to replace ribs broken during construction..."

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Supplementary file notes

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