Olympic (oz16728)

About this Plan

Olympic. Radio control sport biplane model. Wingspan 55 in.

Quote (google-translated): "Preface to the 3rd Edition: The Olympic is so well-known both at home and abroad for its excellent flight characteristics that the plans are now being published in their 3rd edition. Even in the USA, this large biplane caused a sensation. I would now like to share the experience that has been gathered in the meantime.

With the advent of small multi-channel servos, it is now possible to install the ailerons and servo in the upper wing. The wiring can be connected via plugs. This increases the effectiveness of the ailerons.

Model pilots who already have experience in aerobatics can reduce the wing incidence angles. The lower wing can be set to 0°, even -1° (in the plans, +1°). The upper wing can be set to +2° to +1° (in the plans, +3°). The upper wing should have at least 1° more incidence than the lower wing. However, reducing the incidence angles makes hand launches difficult, and launches should only be performed on a concrete runway. It is advantageous to couple the tailwheel to the rudder, or at least to mount it so that it can rotate.

The pushrods for the rudder and elevator are routed inside the fuselage to the level of the slots in part L 34, then through these slots over the horizontal stabilizer and to the segments.

Since model engines have become considerably more powerful, it is recommended to mount the engine 20 mm higher than shown in the plans. The front bulkhead is then best reversed, so that the crankshaft bore faces upwards. This prevents stalling under excessive engine power.

Dear model-building enthusiast: I know it's not common practice to read building instructions. If I ask you to make an exception this time it's in your best interest, as I want to help you build the model as efficiently as possible, saving time and materials. To combine aesthetic appeal with high strength and simple construction, some unconventional methods have been used in the design. If you proceed in the correct order, you'll be delighted by how quickly you progress with the build. And now, let's begin!

Let's tackle the difficult part first: the fuselage with the tail assembly.

One thing I'd like to mention beforehand: the parts are numbered in the order of most efficient assembly.

We attach the fuselage bottom, part R1, to the building board with pins and glue the two side walls, R2, to it using three temporary frames. The auxiliary bulkheads are made of 3 mm balsa wood, measuring 65 x 84 mm, and are attached to parts R1 and R2 with pins. They remain in place until the model is finished, ensuring the fuselage stays square. Now, parts R3 are glued in place with UHU Plus, R4 and R5 with hard glue, and R6 forms the rear end. R7 is glued with UHU Plus, ensuring a good bond with R3. After drying, the fuselage box can be opened to the desired width, as warping is no longer possible. Next, the molded parts R8 and the molded strips R9, R10, and R11 are glued in place. R11 is partially glued in from below at the folds. The front of the fuselage is shaped to match bulkhead R65, but kept smaller to accommodate the planking..."

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Quote: "Hello Outerzone, Attached you will find... The Olympic biplane, a kit from the Wik company dating back to the 1960s. I plan to build it someday, however, it's quite a difficult project. I bought it a few months ago on eBay. This biplane is also discussed on Classic Pattern.
I hope you enjoy using all of this and the attached photos. Best regards,
Thierry"

Corrections?

Did we get something wrong with these details about this plan (especially the datafile)? That happens sometimes. You can help us fix it.
Add a correction