Paul Plecan Profile Pilots (oz16688)

About this Plan

Paul Plecan Profile Pilots (Paul Plecan's Paper Peanut Profile Pilots). Series of profile pilot drawings at different scales.

Quote: "INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING PEANUT PROFILE PILOTS

PLECAN'S PAPER PEANUT PROFILE PILOTS were meant just for Peanut models at first, but if desired, can be used in any rubber flying scale model where weight is an important factor. Since a wide range of aircraft are chosen as 'Peanut' class subjects, a fairly large range of pilots are needed. If you scale a 37 ft Mustang or a 36 ft Citabria down to Peanut size (13 inch maximum span), it works out to 3/8 inch to the foot scale (or pretty close to it). On the other hand, a tiny biplane like the Knight Twister, at 15 ft span, works out to 7/8 in to the foot. Most Peanut models fall within these extremes.

These PROFILE PAPER PILOTS will come in handy for any other-than-Peanut scale jobs. There are numerous Walt Mooney designs that were published for many years (before he became so much more famous as a Peanut Vendor). And you don't need to know the wingspan of the prototypes for the designs in the 1974 book Flying Scale Models of WW-II published by Model Builder magazine. All 1/2 inch scale. Same for the numerous Cleveland Model Co. Dwarf series.

For the scratch-builder (usually rarer, less well-known aircraft are the subjects here) all you need to know is the span of the real craft. Match it up to one of the groups (1 to 9, at left) and pick your pilot size accordingly. And don't get too nervous about getting it exact. Remember that us humans vary a fair bit in size, so all you need to do (in a pinch) is get close.

Experience has shown that certain models show up in greater numbers at most Peanut contests (like Peck Polymers' Cub), so you'll notice that there's a preponderance of 7/16 and 1/2 in pilots. With 300 in this assortment, you are pretty well set - even if your 'bag' is esoteric stuff.

While it hardly needs explaining that each paper pilot is printed in a left and right half, I'll remind beginners that it makes a lot of difference as to the type of glue used to join the halves. Mucilage and Library paste dry too slow so do the job with a fast-drying model cement, such as Testors or Ambroid.

Any method of mounting the pilot will do. Position is quite important for realism, however. By looking through some old magazine that deal with lightplanes or sportplanes (such as Air Progress or Flying), you can get plenty of ideas.

For the usual cabin job, the pilot's eyes should be higher than the top of the engine cowling (but watch that he has a bit of headroom). During most flights, one encounters some degree of rough air, so it is safe to have about 4 to 6 inches of headroom.

In an open cockpit, the top of the pilot's head can be even with the top of either the windshield or headrest. In the smaller airplanes, the pilot generally sits kind-a high in many of the photographs I've checked. And many of the pilots of small jobs seem to be unusually tall!

Before you put the pilot in the model, consider the possibility of coloring him. Either colored pencils or water colors will do the job. Just a mere hint of flesh tone, a tan or brown helmet (or a bright color in the case of a Goodyear pilot's hard-hat). But do give it a thought, as color will heighten realism considerably.

Any son of cross-piece in the cabin or cockpit will do for pilot support. 1/32 balsa sheet is fine. Heavy paper is okay too. About the thickness of a business card."

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Quote: "Hello again from Oklahoma. Going through my files and I thought some other indoor scale flyers might find these files useful. Currently installing two in my Tern Aero Nighthawk Sportster (oz4388) [main pic]. Keep up the FANTASTIC work,
Tom Solinski"

Corrections?

Did we get something wrong with these details about this plan (especially the datafile)? That happens sometimes. You can help us fix it.
Add a correction