Signorita (oz16649)

About this Plan

Signorita. Radio control sport trainer model. Wingspan 45 in.

Note this plan used the SIG (tapered) molded foam wing. For a plan showing how to construct a replacement wing in balsa see: SIG Foam Wing (oz16499) thanks to Mark Winstanley.

Quote: "Not just another trainer! Peter Miller's versatile and rugged .15 sports flier uses a readily available moulded foam wing - and is capable of aerobatics.

Learning to fly R/C can be pretty traumatic and expensive. However, one of the major problems is that novices need to keep flying regularly, or they slide back down the learning curve - after all, even very experienced pilots can get rusty after a long lay off.

Before you experienced types snort and say oh, another b----- trainer, read the flying section - you will find that Signorina is very versatile, it can be a simple fun model capable of some sprightly aerobatics, just the job as a reserve model, and perfect for a bit of flying from a rough field.

Signorita is designed to be cheap and very quick to build. I built mine working for a few minutes at a time over 5 days, with about 3 one-hour sessions included. The novice would take a little longer, of course.

PERKINS' PARTS: The secret of the model is the wing. It is a moulded item manufactured by Sig and imported and distributed by J Perkins. For £10, you get a wing that is ready to cover - no gluing, no joining. In fact, according to my old Sig catalogue, you don't even need to cover it. The box packaging even shows some simple ideas for using these wings in more elaborate models. Another time and effort saver is the undercarriage. This is a pre-formed wire unit, which can be ordered at the same time as the wing. The only parts that actually need to be built are the fuselage and tail, and these have been designed for ultimate simplicity and yet they are quite attractive, too. A full materials list - with catalogue numbers - is given at the end of the article.

FLYING THE MODEL: This is the part that most people want to read to decide wether or not they want to build the model. Once the model has been trimmed out by an experienced pilot, it is very easy to fly. Take-offs from smooth ground do need some practice because the wide U/C makes the model swing if it hits a bump with one wheel - but this is easily corrected with a dab of rudder. The model can be hand launched easily.

Low-speed handling is very good - I was able to throttle right back and feed in full-up on high rates - the model mushed along and any slight tendancy for a wing to drop could be corrected instantly with the rudder. With the controls set at low rates, the model is responsive without being twitchy. If the pilot gets into trouble, it will recover into steady circling flight if the sticks are released, although it may lose some height in the recovery, so always fly two mistakes high.

On the first day that the model was taken to the club, five pilots of varying degrees of skill flew it. The experienced pilots thought that it was a nice, responsive model with no bad habits. Two less-experienced modellers had a go, both flying for nearly 20 minutes without any trouble. One of these pilots can fly an electric Junior Sixty, and has never flown anything more demanding than electric-powered gliders. He flew Signorita for the full 20 minutes in a stiffening breeze, and never once felt any concern.

With high rates on, the model is quite aerobatic, loops and flick rolls are easy, but doing an axial rudder/elevator roll does take a lot of practice. This manoeuvre is done by applying full rudder - the model will bank - and as the wings become vertical, start applying 'down' elevator, reaching full 'down' as the model is inverted. Reduce the 'down' until the wings are again vertical and the elevators are neutral, but still holding full rudder until the model is in level flight again.

Landings are simple - the model has a steady, flat and fairly fast glide - you can flare out at the last minute for really smooth landings. Less smooth landings, e.g. on one wingtip in a ploughed field, don't do any damage at normal landing speeds.

BUILDING THE MODEL: The parts count has been kept to the minimum and all the lines are straight, so that there is no difficult marking or cutting. The best way to mark out the parts is to lay the wood down, cover it with handwriting carbon paper, then the plan, and then carefully draw through the plan using a ballpoint and straight edge..."

Signorita from Aviation Modeller International August 2000.

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Supplementary file notes

Article pages, thanks to RFJ.

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