Super Sleek Streek (oz16548)

About this Plan

Super Sleek Streek. Simple rubber stick ROG model. Wingspan 15 in.

The North Pacific Sleek Streek (oz16542) dates back to 1952. This here is a later, modified version from 1971.

Quote: "Optimizing flight performance of a simple dimestore ready-to-fly plane is challenging fun. Super Sleek Streek, by Bill Warner.

MAKE SEVERAL IMPROVEMENTS to the readily-available Sleek Streek by North Pacific Products, and the result is a fast-climbing, fire breathing, high-performance model. During ten years of working with junior-high-age modelers, I have seen hundreds of Sleek Streeks built and flown. With care they can top a minute consistently, indoors or out. Many have flown out of sight at five minutes plus, while the best indoor times have run around two minutes, fifteen seconds!

Construction: Begin construction by sanding the wings, with a gentle touch, from the center towards the tip. A wing needs strength at its root but should be lighter at the tip to improve flying ability. However, tips should not be paper-thin, or else they may split or be too weak. A little airfoil may be sanded in or the curved shape on top of each wing emphasized in the direction of its natural curve.

Cut the wing tips off exactly where shown on the plan. Sanding the dihedral joints (where the wing changes direction) is probably the hardest job, so take your time. The trick is to sand a little bevel (angle) on each wing section, while keeping the wing curved in its airfoil shape. A sanding block and a couple of sanding fixture blocks (see plan) simplify this step, The fixture blocks hold the curve and the angle at the same time, while the wing pieces are sanded straight across the ends.

After sanding the correct bevel on each wing joint, spread a line of cement about the thickness of a fat pencil lead along the edges to be joined. Fit the joint together, rub in any extra cement which squeezes out, take apart and let dry to fill the pores in the wood. Repeat this operation a second time, but now hold the parts together until dry, Holding the assembly is essential. Drying flat on the table will ruin the curved airfoil, which is necessary for top performance. To prevent warping or adding extra weight, wipe off any gobs of cement which are on the wing.

Pull the staple out of the fuselage (body) and cut down the bottom side to reduce weight (unless the fuselage balsa is very soft). Note the angle at the end of the fuselage where the stab will go later. Bend a pin for the rear motor hook and bind and cement it just in front of the stab position.

With a pair of pliers, take out the old prop shaft and throw it away. The new rubber motor would just climb out of the original hook. From the white plastic front-end part, cut out the piece (shown on the plan) to allow for rubber clearance. Cement the front end to the fuselage and bind with thread. Spread cement around it, rubbing into the thread wrapping.

Bend a new prop shaft out of 1/32 or smaller music wire. Round-nosed pliers are best, but needle-nosed will do. Practice on some softer wire first to get the hang of it. Assemble front end parts, using a glass bead between the front end and the prop. Bend the end of the shaft over at a right angle only when sure the prop is put on properly (at the prop's center is a little spiral ramp which faces front for free-wheeling when the rubber motor is out of winds),

Taper the stab and rudder slightly from the fuselage out to the tips and sand smooth, Cement these pieces onto the fuselage as shown. Then tie the rubber motor to be used and hang it between the prop hook and rear motor hook..."

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Supplementary file notes

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