Zephyr (oz16423)

About this Plan

Zephyr. Simple rubber model. Canard pusher layout. Wingspan 18 in.

Quote: "A simple stick model that would be great for club contests. Full-size plans on next two pages. The Zephyr, by Randy and Irene Wrisley.

The Zephyr is a simple little rubber-powered canard that is a real eyecatcher and quite a performer to boot. Canards are fun and are capable of surprisingly good flights. Being a stick model, the Zephyr is very quick to build. Indoors or out, its consistent performance will make you wonder why this type of layout isn't explored further. (It's interesting to note that, according to Web-ster, a canard is 'an obsolete kind of airplane with the rudder and elevator in front.' Somebody better tell Burt Rutan about this, so he won't design any more 'obsolete' airplanes like the Vari Vig-gen, Vari Eze, or Quickie!)

MOTOR STICK: Cut the motor stick to length from a piece of rock-hard 1/8 x 1/4 balsa. Glue on the thrust bearing and incidence blocks. Next, cement the thrust bearing tube and front motor hook in place. Wrap these with tread and cement well. Sand the motor stick to an oval section, leaving the tops of the incidence blocks flat.

WING: Make an airfoil template from 1/16 plywood. Cut out 14 ribs of light 1/16 sheet and set them aside. Pin down the leading and tip trailing edges on the plan. Cement the No. 1 ribs in place. Use shims to raise the center section trailing edge up off the plan as required and cement it to the No. 1 ribs. Add the rest of the ribs, trimming them at the aft end as necessary. When everything is dry, crack the leading and trailing edges at the No. 1 ribs and raise each tip 2-1/4 inches. Reglue the joints with Titebond or Hot Stuff.

CANARD: The canard is built just like the wing. Use the leftover wing ribs, and when dry, raise each tip 1-3/8 inches for the proper dihedral.

PROPELLER Cut the prop blades from 1/32 sheet balsa. The hub is 1/8 square balsa, 1-1/4 inches long, sanded round. Push a pin through the center and cut a slot 1/32 inch wide and 3/8 inch deep at each end. The slots should be about 60° relative to the pin. Cement the blades to the hub. Put a coat of dope on the back side of each prop blade to get the proper curve (see side view). When dry, balance the prop as best you can.

The prop shaft is a piece of 1/32 music wire. Bend a loop in one end for the rubber motor, slide the shaft through the thrust bearing tube, add two glass beads, slide the prop on, and bend the barb in the shaft as shown on the plan.

COVERING The wing and canard are covered with tissue. Don't shrink the tissue with water or dope, please, or you'll have to get your template out again, cut out 14 more ribs, and build a whole new wing and canard. By the way, the wing and canard are covered on the top surface only.

ASSEMBLY AND FLYING Glue the wing to the motor stick. Spot-glue the canard in place. The motor is a single loop of 1/8-inch rubber with about 2 inches of slack. Balance the model where indicated with the motor in place. Hand glide the model to get the final trim, adding small bits of clay to the nose or tail as required. When you're satisfied with the glide, try a few hand-wound power flights. The Zephyr should fly in left circles, spiraling up under power. Tilting the canard toward the direction you want the model to fly will control the turn. Use a winder for maximum duration. Have a ball, and remember, Zephyr is capable of going OOS on the slightest bit of warm air. After all, that's how it got its name! "

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Supplementary file notes

Article.

Corrections?

Did we get something wrong with these details about this plan (especially the datafile)? That happens sometimes. You can help us fix it.
Add a correction