Bee Bop 38 (oz16375)

About this Plan

Bee Bop 38. Radio control sport model for electric power. Wingspan 38 in.

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Update 6/11/2025: Added article, thanks to RFJ.

Quote: "A super-simple, 38 in wingspan R/C electric sportster for three function systems. Bee Bop, by Mark Bees.

Bee Bop was designed to satisfy my need for a small, leave-in-one-piece, throw-in-the-boot-of-the-car-and-go model. It needed to be hassle free, so electric power was chosen for cleanness and ease of operation. I wanted a model that was simple to fly, quick to build and above all, would not break the bank.

With these brief ideas in mind, I formulated a design which evolved into the model shown here. Bee Bop is a high wing monoplane of 38 in wing span, powered by the low cost speed 400 7.2v motor. The battery pack may be either 6 x 600AA cells (or 7 x 600AA cells - if you want to make things more interesting!).

My final model uses two mini servos, a Fleet BEC motor on/off switch, and a mini receiver, giving an all up weight of 19oz. Although minigear is advisable, this model has flown with a standard Sanwa radio system on board, though the performance of the model was reduced due to the extra weight.

FUSELAGE: This will not be a stick part-A-to-part-B description. The model is very easily built and most of the construction is self explanatory.

The fuselage is based on two basic sides of 3/32 balsa sheet, with two forward doublers inside (with a slot cut into it to take the ply engine mount). Fuselage formers are then glued in place to produce the basic fuselage 'box'. The tail end is then brought together and glued, then cross sheeting fitted top and bottom. (Note: leave the bottom open from the rear fuselage former to the nose for easy access to the battery and motor). A bit of sanding to smooth things off and there you have it - simple wasn't it.

Note: If you should wish to use an undercarriage, fit a simple 'V' type made from piano wire and sew and glue it to the 1/16 plywood upright former. (Don't forget to fit a skid to the tail end, but remember, undercarriages add weight and return very little benefit on this size of model!)

WINGS: The wings are of a constant chord type, built in the time honoured way. Ribs are made from 3/32 sheet and the leading edge and spars are of 3/16 sq hard balsa strip, while the trailing edge is made from pre-shaped 1/4 x 3/4 stock. A plywood dihedral brace is used to join the wings together, then 1/32 sheet is added to the centre bays. It is a very straight forward wing and can be built very quickly. Be sure to build both wing panels accurately on a flat surface. (We don't want any warps.)

TAIL FEATHERS: Stabiliser and fm frame outlines are made from 3/16 sq balsa strip, with 3/16 x 1/16 used for internal fin bracing ). Rudder and elevator are both cut from 3/16 sheet and sanded to section. These components are very easy to build using the plan and constructional notes on technique are not required, except to say, keep these as light as possible.

COVERING AND ASSEMBLY: Any covering type can be used, just keep it light (the less weight added at this stage, the better). Wings and tailfeathers of the original Bee Bop with covered in Solarfihn, while the fuselage was covered with Solartex and given one coat of 100% strength cellulose dope (shrinking). For some unknown reason, this helps tp prevent Solartex wrinkling in the heat. (Do not use this method on Solarfilm etc).

Elevator and rudder were attached using Solarfilm hinges, yet again in the interest of weight-saving (but normal type hinges can be used). Cover the tail end bits first, before gluing well (very well) to the fuselage. I would suggest making a plug the same shape and size as the opening in the rear of the fuselage, glue this first to the bottom of the tailplane, then glue the lot in place. A snake was used to connect the elevator to its servo and the rudder was connected by way of a closed loop system. Solarfilm was used for the cockpit outline.

The motor was installed onto the hard balsa block and retained with a plastic (zip) cable tie. (Note: side thrust and down thrust is built in) and a 6 x 3 prop was fitted.

The battery pack is test fitted and hooks are installed to front and back in the space allowed so rubber bands can be used to retain the pack. (See photo). The wing is also retained by rubber bands and these are attached to dowels fitted through the fuselage.

OFF INTO THE WILD BLUE YONDER: As he picked up his flying helmet and white scarf from the table positioned invitingly at the door of the club house, the brave Aviator made his way across the dew laden grass of the airfield. With each of his steps his initial feelings of excitement and anticipation turned to thoughts of will it, or wont it fly! A question soon to be answered.

Welcome, Welcome to all those persons, like me, who always read the flying bit first, so here we go. Patiently wait for a calm day and preferably carry out initial flight testing over long grass, on a day with good visibility, at a site of adequate size with no obstructions and devoid of spectators. If anybody who knows of such, contact me as I have never found one!

Alternatively, find a reasonable location, carry out all radio checks for correct and safe operation (beforehand), assemble the model, ensuring alignment of wings to fuselage and tailplane, check you have no warps. (If you do, Do NOT fly, go home and remove them. Better now than when you have to rebuild the whole model). Check that the model balances on the CG position as shown on the plan (with battery fitted) and you are ready to go.

With knees trembling, launch the model directly into any breeze blowing. Always let the model fly straight and level for a short distance to build up speed and you're away. The first thing you will notice about flying Bee Bop is how easy it is to fly. I have found it to be very pleasant to control and very forgiving, to the point where I am now teaching my son to fly using this model, instead of his normal trainer!

My only tip is that when building Bee Bop, as is true with all models - build accurately and keep it light (a maximum weight of 21 oz should not be exceeded, 19 oz or below is ideal).

I have flown Bee Bop for some months now and find it great fun. It will small in a very space and I have found it to be very forgiving of my mishandling. Its small size has made it ideal for sneaking in the car for those opportunist flying sessions.

If you choose to build this model, I am sure you will have as much fun as I have. Keep it in the boot, you will be surprised when you can sneak a flight! "

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