Mitsubishi A5M-3a Claude (oz16362)

About this Plan

Mitsubishi A5M-3a Claude. Free flight scale model for rubber power.

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Quote: "MITSUBISHI A5M-3A. The A5M3a was a version powered by a 610hp Hispano-Suiza twelve-cylinder liquid cooled engine, with a 20mm cannon firing through the propeller hub. Two prototypes were built, and this was the fastest version of the aircraft but the Japanese navy didn't want to become dependent on imported engines, so it didn't enter production. –History of War.org

This 27” span rubber powered Free Flight (always Capitalized) model. Drawn 20 Sept 2025.

CONSTRUCTION:

WING: The wing is constructed using the Dave Rees’ Sliced Rib Technique. A tutorial is noted on the plan from Mike Stuart’s Free Flight Models site. I encourage you to familiarize yourself with this tutorial. If you choose to not mold the ribs per the tutorial you can slice the ribs from 1/16” sheet balsa using a airfoil jig as found on: https://www.stickandtissue.com/forum/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1403712371 The wingtips and leading edge is laminated using 3 laminations of 1/32”x3/32” strips around a pattern taken from the plan. Be sure to use wax or another release agent on the patterns.

FUSELAGE: The fuselage is built using a ladder jig. The plans have a link to the YouTube video by Tom Hallman/Maxiflyart in his build series of the proposed Beechcraft twin staggerwing #1. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1yUYY1dqfH8

EMPENNAGE: The horizontal stab outline is laminated like the wing and wingtips using strips of 1/32”x3/32” balsa laminated around a pattern. Make a two sets of laminations and join them flat on the building surface using 3/32” balsa sheet as per plan.

VERTICAL STAB: The vertical stab uses the same laminated outline around a pattern. Trace the inner pattern from the plan and laminate 3 strips of 1/32”X 3/32” strips around the pattern by soaking the strips in warm water for approximately 15 minutes and then using wood glue brush on the glue to one strip and add the second strip, then repeat the gluing process to add the third strip. You should have glue free surfaces on the outside of the laminations as you add these strips around the pattern. I usually make my patterns from 1/8” foam board and wrap the edge with Teflon tape around the edges. This makes for easy release. Once the outline has dried add the vertical spar of 1/16” sheet triangular spar 3/32” at the top and 3/16” at the bottom. Add the spar after the outline of the vertical stab is dry. I use super glue to add the spar which makes for a strong joint and allows the stab to be finished in the air, adding the 1/32”x 1/8” ribs over the vertical spar attaching to the L.E. and T.E, and vertical spar. Start at the bottom of the spar and work up to the cap of the vertical stab.

This should make an unusual model that even though it wasn’t put into production was flown by the Japanese Navy for testing and improvement of the “Claude” as the allies called her.

I hope you find this a nice and rarely modeled aircraft. Regards, Tom Akery"

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