Mystery Racer (oz1627)

About this Plan

Mystery Racer. Control line scale model racer.

This is a scale model of the Travel Air Mystery Ship, and the heading text print on the plan 'Mistery' is a misspelling.

From the multi-plan sheet Aeromodelismo A-16 Apr 1951.

Originally published in Flying Models, April 1950.

Update 13/7/2022: Added article, thanks to Pit.

Quote (google-translated from the Spanish): "Mystery Racer, by Dick Ealy. Build this beautiful scale model reproduction of a famous racing plane from twenty years ago. Ideal for Team-Racing.

It was two decades ago that the Travel Air Mystery Racer was the sensation of airplane racing. Under the expert leadership of D Davis, the plane succeeded at 310 kph on average - on a closed circuit of 50 miles. The Mystery thing (Misterio) arose because modifications and revolutionary details for that time were incorporated into the plane, all aimed at obtaining greater speed.

One of them was the NACA fairing, for the engine, responsible for an increase of 20 miles per hour in speed. More mphs were also obtained using the slim profile, fairings for the wheels and the passenger compartment almost without protruding from the line of the fuselage. With a Whirlwind engine of only 300 hp, the Mystery reached a maximum speed of 385 km per hour.

Following these tests, Frank Hawks used the same aircraft to set various transcontinental tides. But let's leave the original plane aside and go to the reproduction that we present in the plans, which is a 7/8 inch scale for each foot.

Fuselage and tail: As a basic element of the fuselage, a box made with balsa sheet is used. Use the top view to get the actual measurement.

Now fit frame B made of 5mm balsa. Join the two panels at the part. back and then cement frames C, D, E, F, which are 3 mm balsa. In all the frames, care will be taken that the grain of the wood is vertical. Now place the plywood stiffeners between B and C on the inside of each panel. Now cut another piece of plywood to support the control rocker. Place this with screw and nut. The stabilizer is made of 5 mm smooth balsa, sanded to profile. Cement control lever very tightly. With fabric hinges one joins the stabilizer and the elevator. Now place the transmission udder by welding a washer to it so that it does not come loose from the elevator. Before cementing the tail group in its socket, make sure there is smooth movement of the control parts. The most convenient way to make the transmission wire is to do it in two parts, which are then soldered when everything is complete, so that the neutral is well inserted.

The mixing tank rests on a 3mm raft layer cemented above the rocker arm. Now cement the tail skid and then the bottom plate. Now apply three coats of cement to the B frame and to the rear face of the nose block. When it has dried, apply another coat of cement to either part and then join them together, holding them under pressure with staples.

Cut out 1.5mm plywood flame arrestor, and fit the motor (an Ohlsson 23 or equivalent) with radial mount. Repeat the above procedure for cementing the frame to the nose block. This type of motor mounting is simple and practical. Now a hole is made for the passage of the neoprene tube from the tank to the motor and the tank is installed definitively.

Now the upper plate is added and, later, the frames, rods and sides of 1.5 mm plate. Cement the sheet of 6 mm, in the inferior part. The final part of the fairing is now added carving and then sanding with finer grade sandpaper. Also cement the 5mm balsa sheet rudder. Wing and landing gear: Cut 16 ribs from 2mm sheet metal. Then prepare the leading and trailing edges and build the wing on a flat surface, leaving the center space unribbed. Cut the stringers in the central part in order to incorporate the 14 mm dihedral. at each tip.

Now cement the plywood stiffeners for the dihedral and center ribs. A recess must be made in the two internal ribs to be able to place the plywood support for the landing gear. This will be made of 2 mm steel wire, tying it to the plywood with thread and cementing it strongly. The plywood with the landing gear is then cemented to the wing.

The wheel fairings are made in four parts using 5mm balsa sheet metal. Place the wheel inside the fairing and slide the assembly onto the axle. Cement the 'pants' to the wire, having previously made a groove in the wood so that the wire has ample support surface.

The wing and stabilizer will be placed without incidence. The rudder shall be tilted out of the circle by at least 12 mm. In this way it is ensured that the control cables are always tensioned.

The model can be covered with silk or double Japanese paper with a cross grain. Moisten then so that it stretches and apply three coats of dope. The original model was painted like the real Mystery with three coats of white paint and black trim.

Finally add the final details, such as celluloid cabin, control cable guides, etc. The engine cowling ring can be aluminum or balsa-reinforced. The complete model should weigh around 400 grams.

Flights: They will be carried out with 3-tenths cables, 15 meters long. For the Ohlsson 23, an 8 x 8 Ohlsson propeller and an Ohlsson N9 2 mix were used. With this combination, the model achieved the best speeds."

Supplementary file notes

Article, in Spanish.

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